Actually, I did have to do something to the page. I worked out that the apostrophe at the beginning of the thread's subject was the cause of the problem although not through the fault of the original poster but the fault of the humble webmaster (me).

A quick patch has been applied and all is now well.

Yes it's fine now

edited.

A simple apostrophe, I'll bet that took a while to find. The simple things are usually the hardest!

A few days, on and off.

Because I didn't insert some inverted commas (quotation marks) around the variable that represented the subject heading the browser will treat the apostrophe as a special character instead of raw text.

Glad you got that sorted, my next question is about a μF 10 capacitor,
and whether or not the unit of measurement should be written first

Retrobright works!
original:
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Two day treatment:
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I'm just not game to do the actual dial face fearing it will remove the printing,
but might find a way to do one side only.

Haha you know you just got that as I really wanted that and rang the guy a few times with no response, finally got onto him and it was sold lol very good buy

...my next question is about a μF 10 capacitor, and whether or not the unit of measurement should be written first.

The value always comes first followed by the unit of measurement. 10μF is the correct way to express capacitance of ten microfarads.

BTW: You are allowed to let the forum automatically word-wrap your posts. No need to hit Enter/Return when starting a new line unless starting a new paragraph.

Brad. you dissapoint me!
Thread title: μF 10 capacitors!!!

Bling you would have got it for any decent offer.
I offered $100 a couple of weeks before and he turned me down,
then he emailed back and took it up, saying he'd had a few phone calls,
but everyone asked "How much do you want?" rather than making an offer.

Brad again,
It's OCD of mine. I grew up with Amigas on BBS,
and a line over 70 chars would roll another line.. and there weren't
many lines on the screen either,
It's kind of a habit that never went away.

It's OCD of mine. I grew up with Amigas on BBS.

The C64 and Viatel was where I spent some time in the 1980s. My old man used it for the TAB and I used to sneak on when he wasn't looking and head for Dick Smith kit pricing.

Only 40 columns there.

What Retrobright recipe did you use? There's so many variations floating around, some using exotic ingredients. I've experimented with a few but never had huge success. One of the cheapest was a clear tub of Napisan left in the sun for a couple of days. Other more expensive brews dried out too quick and some were just plain weird!

The chlorine in Napisan is probably what does the trick. I never thought it was possible to completely rid cellulose of the yellow tint though it looks like it is worth experimenting with further.

Vanish commercial product alone (hydrogen peroxide solution).
When it starts working because there's enough Sun,
the liquid turns from pink to clear/yellowish.

everything has to be cleaned and dried first or the Vanish will foam up.

Haven't tried dark colours yet,
and be careful with anything printed, I have some evidence to suggest this stuff will be eaten up,
even though 25 yr old keyboard printing is fine.

It's the Amiga that drew my attention to it.. Retrobright was kinda invented on English Amiga Board,
but I've only been running emulation in later years,
and had no retro computer hardware to try.

I made two sincere promises. There's a tip for you ;)
I didn't talk to the business man selling the radio.

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I will need help from you guys, it's still really only my second fresh radio.
I have the speaker situation sorted out.

I only got to turn the dial a couple of times before that broke. That will be fun.
200 - 550 kHz? I only just noticed that today!

I noticed also, the paper/wax and electrolytics are
imported from the USA for a Sydney company.
Why does that concern me more than Holden closing down now?

My first radio from the 50's had all Australian components that I could tell.
Electrolytics and wax/paper were Ducon (Aus), and so were all transformers.

Art

The 200 to 550 marking on the dial refers to the wavelength in metres, which was the norm in those days, whereas later dials were always marked in frequency.
200 to 550 metres is approximately equal to 1500 to 550 kHz and some dials will show both frequency and wavelength.

Harold