Chieftain by Motor Spares Ltd., Melbourne
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6689
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All octal except for 1R5.
So what is the deduced line-up?
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2373
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1R5, 1N5GT, 1H5GT, 1Q5GT.
The 1R5 has replaced a 1A7GT at some stage with a chassis washer, looks like factory.
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Location: Latham, ACT
Member since 21 February 2015
Member #: 1705
Postcount: 2158
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1H5GT, 1R5, 1N7GT and 1Q5GT
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2373
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No such thing as a 1N7GT.....
There was a 1N6G, though. It's a 1.4v battery output pentode with a diode. I've never seen one!
Makes you wonder what this valve would have made possible in the late 1930s. By reflexing the 1N5 IF amp you could have dispensed with the usual 1H5 and probably got more audio gain to boot, with only 3 valves and lower power consumption. A smaller portable radio would have been possible, or maybe one with 2 IF stages and 4 valves - that would have been a hot performer for the day.
Somebody must have done something like this because the 1N6G is available NOS....
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Location: Latham, ACT
Member since 21 February 2015
Member #: 1705
Postcount: 2158
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Sorry I must have hit the wrong number lol.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6689
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The 1R5 has replaced a 1A7GT at some stage with a chassis washer, looks like factory.
Using that "previous to 1R5" line-up with all GT types I get these matches:
1939, HMV 600
1940, Airzone 457
1941, Stromberg Carlson B41
Some photos of this Chieftain set would be interesting to see posted here.
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Location: Latham, ACT
Member since 21 February 2015
Member #: 1705
Postcount: 2158
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Administrator
Location: Naremburn, NSW
Member since 15 November 2005
Member #: 1
Postcount: 7307
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Photos uploaded to Post 22.
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A valve a day keeps the transistor away...
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Location: Hill Top, NSW
Member since 18 September 2015
Member #: 1801
Postcount: 2017
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Looks like an easy job, assuming the coils and transformer(s) are ok.
The dial cord looks bodgy.
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2373
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HMMM - the 1H5 and 1N5 I didn't actually mail today are G type, not GT. Might not fit, too tall. I'll have another rummage!
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6689
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Location: Latham, ACT
Member since 21 February 2015
Member #: 1705
Postcount: 2158
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There is plenty of headroom Ian the case is very roomy I will send Brad a picture of the case. I thought I did.
Ian I have a silly question , would the voltage for this be 90 volts and 1.5 volts? I am being cautious because someone has fiddled with the power wires. Those wires going to the pot I am assuming are the low voltage ones and my thoughts are that they dont need to be polarity conscious am I correct ?.
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5259
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Seriously wrong assumptions.
You are going to have to consider all polarities: This is a battery set with filament valves. 1H5 and 1Q5 mentioned require that pin 2 is F+ and pin 7 to be F-.
As the polarity of the filament forms part of the valves bias, I would proceed with caution; both of those are 90V valves. Whilst one may take a risk with the paper caps at that voltage; One does not do that with old electrolytic caps, irrespective of their position.
9V batteries interlink, so 10 cheap ones, a dead one & some duct tape should get the "B" voltage. The norm with the filaments is to get a couple of "D" size battery holders & wire them for parallel & don't use low grade ones there.
You pull the top plate off the dead 9V battery and break it in half: That gives you the terminals for the "B" battery.
All quite simple. Make sure that you check the resistors when you change out the wax paper caps: Rework is a pain & risky.
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2373
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Hi Carl
Your radio might already have the plugs to connect directly to the power supply. If not, use the screw terminal blocks.
1.5v + goes to the switch contact that measures continuity when ON with pin 2 of the 1Q5 socket - that's the socket closest to the switch.
1.5v - goes to the chassis.
+90v goes to the other switch contact that measures continuity when ON with the + side of the 2μF electrolytic.
If you only have one good set of switch contacts, use them to switch the 1.5v and wire the +90v directly to the + side of the 2μF electrolytic.
-90v goes to where the blue wire is connected.
That should work. With my power supply, unlike with batteries, you are safe if you have a full set of valves in place because the B+ can't supply enough current to blow the valve filaments if you get it wrong.
I used to recap battery radios unconditionally, now I check functionality, B+ current draw and AGC operation first and leave the caps in if it works OK, which they usually do with that generation of Ducon paper caps in battery radios. Unlike mains radios battery sets don't heat up. Heat is what generally triggers paper cap leakage.
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Location: Toongabbie, NSW
Member since 19 November 2015
Member #: 1828
Postcount: 1251
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Good photos Carl.
You can almost draw a circuit diagram from the underside shot.
I can see its a superhet with 2 IFs and the can underneath is most likely the oscillator coil but where is the aerial coil?
Is it a loop antenna in the case?
Fred.
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