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 HMV Stratford Y2-D3 - 3 in 1 TV Radiogram from 1969
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 46 · Written at 7:19:05 PM on 10 March 2020.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Bi carb = soda ash = baking soda = pool buffer = Sodium Bicarbonate = NaHCO₃


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 47 · Written at 8:42:21 PM on 10 March 2020.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5389

Actually No!

Sodium Bicarbonate: aka Sodium Hydrogen Carbonate NaHCO3 is not the same as Sodium Carbonate Na2CO3.

Sodium carbonate is much more alkaline; aka washing soda & there's quite a bit in many washing powders, and it will attack Bakelite that's why you only use it if you have to on the switches and be quick.
http://browardcentralscience.org/msds/s/sodium%20carbonate.pdf

Sodium Bi Carbonate: Note solubility is only around 1 part in 10
https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/20970.htm


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 48 · Written at 9:26:04 PM on 10 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

Yeah Vintage Pete warned me about de tuning the PCB conductors on the tuner.
So far I have only used a very small amount of methylated spirit on a paint brush to clean it.

In regards to the cabinet I have only used wringed out wet wipes to clean the areas where there was mouse urine.
It hasn't been drenched in water.

After this area dried (Quickly in this heat) I have applied baking powder which is still sitting on the affected areas.
This seems to be working very nicely, stain and smell wise.

Pete has told me teak or cedar shavings applied here will also get rid of the smell.
Once we start to restore the cabinet top with Danish oil we can also use some of that on the affected area.

Pete has also kindly loaned me his Dim Bulb so next job is to slowly power up the tuner and see if it's okay. 🤞

Only item left to remove is the turntable which is being stubborn due to the very small round holes on the cabinet with which to access the clips on the end of the turntable screws.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 49 · Written at 10:41:06 PM on 10 March 2020.
Vintage Pete's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 1 May 2016
 Member #: 1919
 Postcount: 2048

Generally with all cabinets and finishes we stay away from water .
The reason being is often cabinet finishers cheat when applying varnish ,shellac , oil finish.
In fact any type of finish and we put in a shellac coat some where to cut time and costs . We than tell the c customer, oh yes that's a pure nitro ,varnish,oil finish etc .
Of course I would never do such a thing ,cough cough...., Anyway shellac will turn white if you wet it !!!
Mostly we use turps to clean finishes, we also use it to sand finishes,
Plus never get chip board wet.,water on finishes also creates a problem we call the dreaded black spot ! It's type of mould and it can be a dog a thing to get rid of.
Teak is very susceptible to the black spot.water on bare wood or missing finishes opens grain.
But when you get closer to getting your set going I will pop over and chat about the cabinet


Pete


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 50 · Written at 12:23:55 PM on 11 March 2020.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Hi Marc

Actually if you read my post I didn't include "washing soda" and so I didn't say it was the same.

The whole issue with common names for chemicals can get the unwary into trouble. Try going to the hardware store and asking for lime.

Safer to use the full chemical name.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 51 · Written at 5:04:32 PM on 11 March 2020.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5389

We have scientific conferences etc that love to change things like Webers per square metre to Tesla to confuse the hell out of people & some of those names go into antiquity & people ignore the new name.

The use of the = sign I felt was not the way to go.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 52 · Written at 9:42:40 PM on 25 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

So because I have a cold and am under isolation at home, I decided to use the dim bulb Pete kindly lent me to see if the Radio/Tuner was okay.

Absolutely nothing.......
Globe didn't come on at all.

When Ian Robertson used the dim bulb on the TV chassis we got a good result even with a power cord that had been chewed by mice ! (To be replaced of course)

The power cord on the Tuner Chassis is in a little better condition but may need replacement

Any thoughts as to what the fault might possibly be.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 53 · Written at 12:01:55 PM on 26 March 2020.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Probably no fault at all, it won't draw enough current when not connected to the speakers and playing loudly to light the lamp!

Do the dial lights come on? Could be dead lamps (common) or open circuit power switch if not.

You did push the radio button I assume?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 54 · Written at 4:54:46 PM on 26 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

No dial lights at all Ian

I was doing it outside in daylight, but definitely no dial light

And yes I did push the Radio button 😂

Could the power cord be dodgy ?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 55 · Written at 7:02:20 PM on 26 March 2020.
Robbbert's avatar
 Location: Hill Top, NSW
 Member since 18 September 2015
 Member #: 1801
 Postcount: 2078

Power cord, or maybe a loose wire in the power plug, or maybe open circuit mains transformer, or the power switch failed.

A multimeter should be able to sort out those things pretty quickly.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 56 · Written at 8:29:57 PM on 26 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

Thanks Robert

I have a multimeter so I can give it a test.

I think I want to replace the old power cord anyway


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 57 · Written at 10:45:09 AM on 27 March 2020.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

On those units as I recall the power switches used to fail under warranty. They were used in a range of HMV products at the time.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 58 · Written at 2:23:09 PM on 27 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

Are the power switches an easy repair or are they made of unobtainium ?

Same with the dial light ?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 59 · Written at 3:08:15 PM on 27 March 2020.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Dial lights from memory are standard MES or MBC (can't recall which) obtainable from Jaycar. 6.3v

The power switch combo block, again from memory, has accessible contacts for most of the switch, not sure about the mains part. They were an MSP part (division of AWA).


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 60 · Written at 5:33:33 PM on 27 March 2020.
Pitchersj's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 2 July 2017
 Member #: 2134
 Postcount: 174

Thanks Ian

That is most helpful


 
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