A friend of a friend of a ... has one of these in their backroom. Hasn't been used since early 80's but has been kept inside.

Does anyone know where I can find a scan of the service data for this? Any other information about it would also be useful.

In the initial pictures it looked to be a light coloured timber cabinet, but has since been discovered as some sort of vinyl veneer on chipboard. So it fits somewhere between real wood and plastic, I'm guessing late 60's early 70's vintage.

Kriesler were owned by Philips at that time, I think Pye was too?. Did these 3 share chassis / circuit designs? If so, probably service data for any of these of similar vintage would be useful.

Thanks for any pointers where I might get access to some data and information about this thing?
matt

I think the Styleline 24 is a 1972 Model E234. Unfortunately I don't know what chassis series is used in this model.

I will have the service data but I'll need a chassis type. The chassis type number should be 49-? if it is solid-state, or 79-? if valve.

Thank you very much.

Such a quick response, you have caught me on the hop, I will have to get back to you with the chassis number. Could be a few days, sorry.

I have the TV in hand now. Its chassis is 49-7.

Unfortunately it is a rather poor example of the era. The adhesive on the vinyl veneer has dried out and the veneer is peeling away, just from moving the set.

The PCB has been modified, and has a large hole where a resister has overheated and charred through the board. Not sure if this predates the modification.

I won't be powering this up without verifying that the circuit is complete and functional.

Yes I have the full manual for the 49-7 chassis series.

It may take a few days as I am quite busy. Also can you confirm that it is a model E234?

Kriesler 49-7 Circuit Diagram
Kriesler 49-7 Service Manual

No hurry at all. I'm very grateful for your help.

I can't find the model number. There is half a paper sticker on the back where the model should be, but there is nothing legible on it.
There is a plastic embossed sticker on the cabinet with an August 1974 date, if that helps.

I know the 49-7 chassis well, used to fix many of them under warranty when they were new.

Not much goes wrong with them and they are an excellent performer.

Is your PCB green (solder mask, wave soldered) or brown (no solder mask, hand soldered)?? Aug 1974 is quite late production for that chassis so it's probably green. Thermal cracks in solder joints were the most common faults on wave soldered boards.

The .0082μF 2kV cap in the bottom RH corner of the PCB (looking from the back) needs to be replaced with the right type of capacitor else it will fail quickly, violently and catastrophically (smoke, flames).

Re any commonality with Pye and Philips, no, apart from the tuner and the hor. output circuits they were quite different. Philips more or less copied the Pye T26 for their last B&W chassis. Pye were always first with the all solid state designs, they had a brilliant engineering team at Marrickville.

Yes, the green board. That cap is in the EHT section. That is also where the hole in the board is.

The whole EHT is suspect, and to be honest I am not sure how to approach it.
I will wait till I get the manual and see if there are any clues there.

Sorry for the delay.

Kriesler 49-7 Circuit Diagram
Kriesler 49-7 Service Manual

A pic on the hole in the board might help, or if you could tell me which resistor or other component burned the board by reference to the component layout in the manual when you get it.

If that big cap from the collector of the hor output transistor to ground is a dark green one, it should be OK. A brown one, no.

It has to be big to handle the current so don't assume a smaller part will work. It won't.

Check for a short from the collector to ground, with and without the cap connected. NEVER power the set without that cap, the hor OP transistor and possibly several other parts will be instantly destroyed.

Despite what I have said, no need to be frightened of this TV. An ohm-meter will quickly tell you what's wrong with the hor op stage. Also check the B+, it should be 35 volts. This is critical.

Documents uploaded to Posts 5 and 9 (identical).

Thank you so much. I downloaded the documents a little earlier and I must admit parts of the schematic have me a bit baffled. The service manual will be a great help in understanding the circuit. Again, thank you.

Ian, the 3KV capacitor (C116), it is a brown hawthorn brand .0022μF. It looks original. It is not a dead short in situ, but it confuses the DMM on higher ranges. I guess from the surrounding circuit or the meter charging the cap.

The output transistor seems OK. C is not a short to earth, again in situ.

The resistor in question is the 10W 8.2ohm (R162). It seems this is a sacrificial current limit that protects the horizontal output circuitry in the case of failure. It must have been drawing a lot of current to burn through the board.

Can I fire the set without the CRT anode connected or with the EHT rectifier removed? This will give me a chance to check voltages without a load, and hopefully protect the CRT.

From what you tell me it'd be safe to power up as is. No need to disconnect the CRT.

If you hear a "zap" when you switch it on, don't be alarmed, that's good. It's the EHT charging instantly. No soft-start in this design!

Many of that model suffered from static electricity flashovers around the mask due to the metallic paint conducting. Used to really freak people out! You can fix it by removing the mask and sticking aluminium burglar alarm tape around the inside of the mask and grounding it to a CRT mounting bolt.

When you fire it up, have a voltmeter connected across the 8.2 ohm resistor so you will know if anything is stressed. Also check for 35 volts at the power supply end of the resistor. Switch off immediately if it's over 35 volts.

I'm betting that TV will be a runner as is.

Thanks for your tips.

> I'm betting that TV will be a runner as is.

You are probably right.

I'm just being cautious. It hasn't been powered up for over 30 years. And then something made the resister burn out in the first place, but I can't see any obvious fixes, apart from those circumventing the hole.

Any way its all packed up for the break so I have a while to think about it.

Here is the pic you asked for, the hole is on the left and cap on right.

Photo uploaded to Post 14.