Johnny.
270k resistor tests ok, has zero vdc either side. Yes it’s on pin 1 of 6bd7.
150pf lifted.
Murray

One end of the 270k goes directly to the 3.3k in the power supply.
And you should be able to trace it back to the positive terminal of the 8 mfd filter capacitor.
Which you have already told us has approximately 160 volts on it.
There in lies a real problem, wiring error.
So, follow the wiring from the other side of the 270k from pin1, to the power supply as just mentioned.
It may be just a matter of lifting this end and connecting it to the electro, to get it going.
But it would be better to actually find the error in the wiring.
It will be a man made fault.
JJ

Johnny,
I think you got it. The 270k is on the next tag along from 3.3k, they are all along that bus bar arrangement. I have moved it to what I believe is correct. It’s dead easy end to end with the 8mfd electro, positive side. (For interest sale, it was on the line running from tag 3 of 6bd7, through c13, to tone pot )
Should I put through dim bulb and fire up?
Murray

Yes, Fire it up, no need to dim bulb at present. Monitor pin1 again, reconnect 150 pf.
But when you get it going, suggest it run for several hours soak test on dim bulb tester, say 75 Watt globe.
I’m expecting noises to come out of it this time.
JJ

Also, Murray. Once you get this going you need to check the following resistors.
R13 and R11, 47k and 680k off pin1, 6AQ5 (biasing).
R8 10M off pin 2 6BD7 (biasing).
R5 2.2M (AGC), to RF/OSC and IF valves. 6AN7 and 6N8.
Probably best to just replace these resistors.
Then a long soak test with dim bulb.
JJ

I think we do not power it up. There is a a comment that a 150pf cap C11 had resistance and was not open. If it was measured correctly (without fingers on wires) then its a dud. Capacitors other than Electrolytic types do not have DC resistance.

What I see here other than a wiring error, is a methodology fail, when the one before touched it. It would be interesting to know why it had all of the valves replaced? I have put valves back in service made in the 1920's. It is a rare even with sets struck by lightning, to have all valves fail. Exception battery filament valves with wrong voltage.

Johnny,
I decided to lift that 270k and check again, even though I checked it out ok last week. It was clearly where the juice stopped flowing. It measured infinite. A minute later it measures ok.. then infinite again. So I’m just going to get it and all the other resistors you just mentioned, from jaycar. That will be midweek before I get to the coast.
Murray

Marc, from the conversation I feel fairly certain he was measuring his fingers with the 150 pf.
Anyway a dead short on one end of a 270k would hardly be cause for not powering up.
Murray, while you are at Jaycar you might consider buying a mid priced digital meter.
JJ

I have been a little confused by some of the discussions on component replacement of late.

I think it is important to remember that we are dealing with electrical appliances that are usually more than 50 years old and of late there seems to be talk of dead shorts being okay, old capacitors can be left in service and a few other issues which have usually been regarded as no go zones.

As an electrician, I do not like hearing that a short is okay, regardless of the subject being discussed. If the component isn't a wire link then there should not be a dead short on it. I also disagree with the consensus that certain types of capacitors can often be left in service. Electrolytics should always be replaced, no matter what. Other large capacity condensers should also be treated with the suspicion they deserve and generally should be replaced. Any resistors that are out of their tolerance should also be replaced.

Guys (a general comment to all members), please remember that electricity can kill. With valve radios, we have 240 volts going in and up to 700 volts centre tapped elsewhere on the inside of these radios. If you want to live to a ripe old age, invest your beer and cigarette money in these basic, readily available components and restore these radios correctly.

A handful of components with a collective value of around $30.00 isn't worth skimping on. If a radio cannot be restored to the usual high standard, the cord should be cut off and the radio used as a display piece.

It appears that I have been totally miss understood.
What I said in effect that if the HT rail at 160volts we’re connected to a 270k resistor and the other end was connected to deck, then very little would occur. No smoke no danger, nothing. In fact a short.
No leaky capacitors were suggested to be left in.
And in this case even if it were leaky, it would as in the example I just outlined would be 270 thousand ohms to deck.
No smoke, no danger. Just zero volts one end.
You can’t convey a lifetime of experience to a noobie in a couple of exchanges of text.
In some ways perhaps when we recognise the author of the question is a newbie, we should immediately tell him to cut the power cord off, and maybe ask another forum.
JJ

Some of the forums not to go to are on the WEB: Huge fake news, dangerous operators, & miss information. That sort of thing on forums like this & the American one I an a moderator on won't last as it will be exposed & wiped on sight.

What we need to impress on the new, is to avoid exuberance, and note that there is a set procedure, for assessing old valve radio's battery or mains, or straight out mains powered items that have been abandoned for some time, before they are powered. In many cases they are not safe to power & I have seen plenty that are just downright dangerous.

I often do a bit of "Tag & Test" & I was astounded recently, with the number of home wired cables & a couple of commercial ones that were miss wired & dodgy.

Some things, like many old radios, just have to be repaired, to make them safe to power.

I’m sorry but replacing all capacitors, electrolytics and out of tolerance resistors does not make a radio any safer for a noobie repairer.
All the lethal voltages will still be there.
I’m very disappointed with the responses.
And will not say more, in case I regret it.
Only trying to enjoy vintage radio/tv and help others less experienced.
Thanks to those who have bothered to read all the text and understand.
JJ

Johnny, no-one is having a go at you. It stands to reason that in a group that comprises a large number of people, each with points of view that sometimes differ, there will be debate on what is best and what is not.

All I seek to do is explain that any attempt to keep old components in a radio is not worth the time and effort, and for more reasons that are sometimes apparent. Around 28 years ago (too long ago now to remember the exact time) I was almost killed by a Kriesler 11-20 that went into a meltdown whilst I was sleeping. This is a story that the long term users of this forum are already aware of.

The reason the radio caused trouble was because there was no effort made to restore it before using it. Back in those days it wasn't as important as it is now because the radios weren't as old. Or, at least that was the consensus at the time. These days, it isn't really an option. A lot of collectors, restorers and repairers have strong views one way or another, more often than not based on their previous experiences. Because of my experience with a radio's transformer overheating because of dry electrolytic condensers, I do not take any chances. I replace all electrolytic condensers, paper condensers, out of tolerance resistors and I megger all windings (insulation and continuity test) all power transformers on any radio I want to power up before using them. I also fit new power cords, either with a Clipsal 439S plug top or the original Bakelite plug if it is the two-piece type and in good nick. Grommets are replaced and cable clamps fitted to secure the cord. The choice of plug simply depends on whether I plan on keeping a radio or shifting it on.

My comment on condensers was not specifically related to this thread and was aimed more generally as there's been recent debate on when condensers need replacement and there's also been several threads dedicated to reforming electrolytic condensers, a task which I have always thought a complete waste of time.

As I said before, a compliment of new passive components to guarantee a safe restoration is less than $30 per radio and often much less, depending on the model. In my view, it is money well spent no matter which way one looks at it. No vintage radio's heritage or historical value is decreased by replacing these components so there isn't really any reason not to do it. In fact, any radio that is sold, marked as "Restored and serviced", is likely to attract a higher price.

I think the point I’m trying to make, is that a complement of new passive components will not make a radio any safer for a noobie, because there is a good chance of a man made fault, which in this case has occurred.
Then when the radio is finally going, then yes replace leaky/suspect components for the sake of safety and reliability.
Unfortunately only experience indicates which components can be troublesome.
And should be replaced in order for a good repair/restoration.
No need to mention mains connection and physical constraint, because that’s mandatory.
There is no debate for those that really know.

MichaelB
Would you be able to message me, your email is hidden.
Thanks Murray