Hi,
My old Tasma 1001 is in need of a complete rewire as the insulation is disintegrating. The wiring is in a laced up harness across the back of the chassis. I would like to completely strip the chassis of all parts and rewire. So I will need to make a drawing of how the wiring and components are laid out.
Has anyone produced a drawing in the past. If not I will make one assuming my Tasma is correctly layed out?
Thanks,
Gary

I don't have a drawing, but I'd be taking lots of in-focus and well-lit photos, too.

The drawing leaves potential for Human error,
where the photos don't, so I know what I'd be doing

Also, the wiring pattern will look nothing like the schematic,
especially because there is no PCB.
In design it looks pretty, but in reality, it is practical to go
for the nearest possible connection.

I'll do a drawing as well in the near future.
I want to wire a new harness into the radio and lace it up like I used to do back in my PMG days in the 60's.

lace it up like I used to do back in my PMG days in the 60's.

Ah, wax lacing string.

If you are actually desoldering the entire chassis,
do us all a favour and set an example for these guys:

"
This example should help to give you some inspiration.
Here's the before and after of my Silvertone 1962 model:
"
Image Link

Were you inspired?
I was not.
If this is standard, that is unfortunate.
They don't even bother unscrewing the pots and pushing
them back into the chassis, and masking the holes from behind.
Then the silver spray paint... urghh!

I really hope I get mine going.

The chassis on this radio is not to bad. Its painted green and if I repainted it I will lose the transfers and detalis on the back so I think I'll just rewire it with the period type braided wire. I will post before and after photos to hopefully inspire others.

Well I suppose I just incorrectly assumed it was in poor condition.

ARTS&P stickers are fragile in my experience and bits can fall of even with careful handling. So now spray them with a couple of mist coats of clear matte lacquer that my ladies use for craft work. Mask all around first.
Good for speaker transfers too.

PVA Wood glue is also good to preserve labels/stickers.
It dries clear.

Art, looks like a wrecking yard re-condition.... Lick of paint, good as new.

Lol
Also this one:
Image Link
Now has a transformer problem.

Sorry Garyoz.. you can have your thread back.

If the chassis is ferrous, you can always cut a fridge magnet to size and use that for a mask.

Marc

When I did a job like this recently on a 3D ratsnest of a radio, I tried to colour-code the wiring as much as possible, visually distinguishing B+ from heater rail from audio etc. I fell in love with spaghetti tubing combined with solid copper wire that could hold a shape on an indirect route rather than just sagging across the shortest route from point to point.

To a beginner like me, the relation between a schematic and the actual wiring ratsnest was like the clues to a cryptic crossword.

Maven

You can get cloth covered wire in solid core. Green is normally heaters. When not following an existing scheme.

I use red for the primary B+ Black Primary negatives. The dark colours for the lesser positives, like Blue for screens and light colours for the lesser negatives eg grids.

Do try to keep the wires & caps close to the chassis I advised one set a few weeks ago, where that had not happened and the IF amp was actually oscillating.

Marc

Hi Maven,
I am extracting the layout from the chassis to complete the drawing. When comparing the schematic to the actual they use spare pins on the octal valve sockets as junction points. These will not appear on the schematic which makes it very hard to follow if you are not aware of this. An example of this in this radio is pin 1 on the 5Y3.
Anyway I should have the drawing finished soon........