Thank you all again for your replys. Ian just read your post and today I actually bought the 1.5k 5 watt resistor. There is absolutely no room for a choke anyway. I also bought a dicast box HB5062 it measures 111x60x30 mm and will fit well where the missing box sits. Painted up it will be better than I could fabricate I can put the resistor in there and the filter caps. What would anyone suggest for filter cap values ? A zero day for actually getting anything done on the radio . Went and did my bit at the op-shop this morning . Took the old Mercedes to give it a run and then went to Jaycar. Got all my stuff went to pay and I found I left my wallet at home. Jaycar is 20ks away so I had to make a second trip.At least the old Merc got its cobwebs blow away again. I am still apprehensive making a start. I need to take out the tuning gang to replace the perished rubber grommets. It looks like a very nasty job are the grommets a standard size or something special . Can anyone suggest a suitable tranquilliser to take before doing this? I think a good dose of red wine would be a good starting point. I received volume 9 from the HRSA today I Thought this was a model 37 but no longer sure . The model 37 was supposed to have got rid of the need for the grommets as the moving vane is grounded . The moving vane in this is not grounded and also model 37 was supposed to have a screw on back again not the case. It does have a tag strip of sorts on the fire cracker bundle. It seems to be an in between model. I guess it will need to be wired up to the 37 circuit. I find the older I get reduces my self confidence .
I never had a self confidence problem when younger , just got stuck into what ever the project, usually car repairs . I now can't stand working on cars anymore . Thinking of retiring to my lounge chair and stairing at the ceiling .
Regards and thank you all . Jim.

No. Don't put the resistor in with the filter caps. Heat is the enemy of electrolytics. It needs to be out in the open as far as you can manage and have an air flow past it. Other than that, you are doing fine.

The rubber grommets you can get at Clark Rubber. Choose ones that will fit tightly in the chassis holes. The black rubber ones are what you need.

Thanks Ian .I Will check out Clarke rubber our store ain't what it used to be . You used to be able to get all sorts of profiles for car doors etc. All that is gone it basically went like Dick Smiths stores selling nothing particularly useful .
The filter caps I was thinking 8mfd on the rectifier side and maybe 24 mfd on the outgoing side . Thank you for your input, I guess this need not be rushed.
Regards Jim

Just got an email from Element 14 they have despatched the the 1.6k ohm resistor . That will make a nicer job .

I think that one is where the dial assy floats above ground? However, some rubber grommets are gettable from Reptile, Bunnings & Industrial suppliers. There are specific manufactures that often turn up at places like Historic Winton (cancelled this year) and swap meetings.

The main reason I suggested a panel mount resistor as a choke, was the wattages available & the panel has area & is a heatsink.

If some one knows the current? Beware of current squared by resistance.

Marc

Hi Marc..
The chassis mounted 15 watt resistor has just arrived. I am going to mount it on the bottom of the rear upright speaker support bracket it will have a bit of space around it and it will be out of sight and not touchable by anyone.
Not making much progress other house hold stuff getting in the way. What can you do!
Regards Jim

Marc, B+ current already established in Post #12, confirmed from the manual and the circuit and by the stated voltage drop across the field coil.

Yes busy at the time & did not go back & look. Plenty of distractions away from radio.

Waiting for some info for this months Radio Club mag so I can finish it "Tooth Fairy has invited me in to try and finish work started last year. I had to remove the cutter deck from the 44" cut mower after two blades conspired to take a chunk out of the chute.

Actually the first time (as I noted) that I have used the oxy to fusion weld thin steel in ages. Then ASAP my tractor needs the cylinder head tightened and I have another to do around 8Km down the road. Always something on the go here.

Made a little progress today. Removed the tunning gang and measured up what grommets are required 6mm I.D. 10 mm OD. I.E. 1/4 X 3/8" will have to look around I was hoping I had some.
Regards Jim.

Jim, a useful trick if your grommets are too large in diameter is to slice a wedge out of them. Makes them easier to fit too.

Thanks Ian.
I may have to do that. Will see what is available
Regards Jim

Progress is slow and painfull . A micro advancement occurred today I have made up another board and component cracker pack.
Robin went back in for day surgery today so I am not able to get stuck in. She is now home doing as well as possible. So domestic chores prevail and I guess have some priority over this project, what can you do !!.
Regards Jim.

Robin takes priority Jimb. The radio can wait

Thanks Carl. She is doing ok.
This radio probably has not worked for several decades so I guess a few more weeks will be insignificant.
Regards Jim

Made a little progress today reinstalled the component cluster fire cracker module which is now all new and wired it up, the two other little sub boards and reinstalled. Next job will be to put the tunning gang back in with new grommets. Unless you have actually worked on one of these it would be difficult to grasp how difficult they are to service. I would think many were not repaired from the onset of the first fault and service call . The cost of repairing these would have been prohibitive to many people. Not actually sure if I am enjoying the experience. I will be over the moon if it springs into life when I eventually get to power it up. I will be amazed if it works first go , still a far bit to do before I reach that stage, and yes I always use the dim bulb tester on initial power up.
Kind regards Jim