The resistor in question is the one that runs from the no.7 pin on the rectifier tube 6x4 and runs to one of the IF transformers.
The problem is that the resistor is heating up and there's no sound coming from the speaker.
I've replaced all the capacitors.
Any ideas what the problem might he would be appreciated.

What make and model of radio is this?

Given that pin 7 is the cathode and HT goes to the plate winding of the IF transformer, the resistor in question is the filter, in lieu of a choke. Clearly, too much current is being drawn, with a multitude of possible candidates.
Check the resistance from HT to ground and look for an electro cap in backwards, solder blobs shorting the supply, a dud coupling cap to the output valve grid.
Above all, use a logical process for chasing the fault, don't just shotgun every component that may or may not be the problem.
As GTC noted, a model number will help find a circuit, if needed.
Harold

It would be extremely useful, as pointed out, to know what we are dealing with. You can send the photo/s to Brad.

There is always the possibility of a filter cap being reverse polarised when fitted & that is a fab way of Killing it. Could also be a shorted valve, solder blob miss wire.

Insufficient info

Thanks guys for all this useful information, I want to get a photo out there for all to see and just maybe someone might be able to tell me exactly what this unit is as there is no names on it and a schematic would be most appreciated.
This is a portable record/radio player, perhaps photos will shed some light.
Thanks.
Leon

G'day Leon,

You can e-mail any photos you have to me and I will upload them for you.

This is a portable record/radio player

Meanwhile, let us know the rest of the valve line-up, in addition to the 6X4.

Hmm, that unit looks familiar. I've got just the radio chassis in the scrap pile, the rest of it was never supplied.

Valves should be 6BE6, 6BA6, 6AV6, 6X4, 6AQ5.

In my case the 6AQ5 was faulty, the getter having fallen from its mount and shorting out the various electrodes at the top of the valve. The cathode resistor had burnt up.

The radio itself is conventional. I'd need to dig out my notes, but I *think* it was a Kriesler.

I'm going to make a wild guess and say the speaker transformer is open circuit.

The chassis is a Calstan/Zenith. There should be a Model/Serial number stenciled somewhere on the chassis.

My guess it is, or very close, to this:-

http://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/549_1.tif

The speaker & transformer can easily be rough checked by cracking a 9V battery across the primary.

I do not like that cap topside. Check the value of the resistor that is getting hot, it may be faulty, but it is more likely over loaded. The voltage across it should also be a clue.

Would agree on a conventional circuit, but wonder if that "gimmick" cap with the red wire, came out of the factory like that? I have doubts. Not everyone used 6AQ5 as an output valve, but a lot like HMV used the others. Not everyone used that (Philips?) style of IF transformer.

Thanks guys, I'll check out some of the great suggestions you guys have given me and I'll definitely come back to you and let you know how things went.
Regards
Leon

I do not like that cap topside
Well spotted. In my case the original can capacitor got quite hot to the touch due to leakage, although the radio still worked. Perhaps the same thing happened to Leon's, and the repairer mounted the replacement up there.

I seem to recall the gimmick red wire was in mine too, but I'd have to dig it out to be sure.

I note as an aside the broken wooden pulley. Not that uncommon & If a big chunk is missing, I just go turn another (Nylon/ Brass) pulley. However, to stop (& sometimes fix) that happening as the wood gets old & brittle; I wipe them over (like varnishing) with a smear of the strong Araldite, which can soak in (slow reaction). That makes it into a high density wood & less likely to fail.

I don't like HV bare wire topside, would prefer a cap on it. I will admit to just putting a 50 Watt resistor topside on a Grigsby-Grunow, but unlike a Tasma where there is one topside under the dial, this one is in the ground lead.

Do note & I have seen the look on faces and been bemused by it, when on several occasions on a fixit day: The lack of reception was due to a switch being in the "phono" position..... Kills em every time.

Loop might be to get some regeneration to start a stubborn oscillator, or get a bit more gain?

Just a short update.. Robbbert is right all the valves is what you said and as for the speaker I've tested using a 9 volt battery and all is good in that department.
Still doing what I can with my voltmeter.
I've replaced the electrolytics.
The only numbers marked on the top and underside of the chassis is 51758.
Regards.
Leon

In my case the wooden wheels and the dial cord are all intact.

If you like, I could look for the chassis and give it to you for spare parts. It seems you live close by.

I'd need to get it out of storage, so it could take a week to retrieve it. Let me know.


I'm just hoping I haven't thrown it out already...