A worrying comment. Did you replace all those things marked Ducon & UCC, some with bands on? They are Waxed Paper capacitors and the whole lot have to go.

Pointless fault finding if they are still in the, & the resistors need checking as you go.

Thanks Robbert for your generous offer the timber wheel doesn't seem to be a problem with the tuning cord.
In regard to the circuit, I've done all that my limited knowledge and multimeter can do and just can't locate the problem.
Thanks to everyone for your skillful advice.
Regards.
Leon

I've done all that my limited knowledge and multimeter can do and just can't locate the problem.

But have you replaced those wax capacitors?

And looking at the Calstan 549 schematic, a problem with those those 16μF filter capacitors (e.g. connected the wrong way around) could make that 2 watt resistor run hot.

Being brutal, there is not much that you can do with a voltmeter in the early stages of repair but possibly later.

In the early posts you said you replaced all of the capacitors, now you say you have replaced the electrolytics?

Did you replace all the wax papers & electrolytics & check all of the resistors?

If its a Calstan it may well be 549 and that big hot resistor is 2,200 Ohms

Is the switch on BC/SW or phono? Its not common to hear radio noise when its on phono.

What sort of antenna is being used.

I always use a set of IC clips on the "B" rail to monitor it to ensure that it is actually developing volts, if it isn't or they are low, I then hit the kill switch & go find out why? should have about 220VDC at the plate of the 6AQ5 (pin 5)

Beware of 6AQ5 pins 1 & 7 Both of those are common & grid one. Countless times I have seen one spare socket pin suddenly used as a tag of convenience , killing the set & sometimes the valve.

Marc

Hi, I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors to the same value and in the right direction as far as positive and negative goes.
When the set warms up I switch the radio/phono switch to the phono position, the only sound that comes from the speaker is when I touch one of the phono pickup connections at the back of the chassis.
The thing I've noticed is when I do this the sound is not like a normal humming sound one gets by touching the phono contacts but the sound is just a tap tap sound every time I touch the contacts.
I hope this makes some sence to someone as I don't know much about old radios but I can recognise a buzzing sound that one gets by touching the phono contacts, but that's not happening.
I'm eager to resolve this problem and hopefully learn from it and your input will help me.
Thanks.
Leon

Whilst I am suspicious that the audio may not be working properly, I find the methodology flawed.

Whilst you may get hum using the finger method on a grid cap, this won't work if most of a moist sweaty finger, is contacting the chassis, as well as the input terminal.

You either have to put it on phono and plug in the turntable, which will also need servicing, and brush the stylus, or you put it on radio: You need signal.

I was privileged to get to fix an AWA R301 based factory special / proto type .... massive wow factor: unbelievable performance.

You would not know from the audio at full volume, with no signal, that it was even on, and that was from a Push pull 6A6 used as an output valve. Properly designed, that is the level of noise I expect, with no signal.

Marc

Thanks mark for your comment I think from your reply it seems perhaps I explained it wrong or you miss read my exclamation.

I posted some more photos last night but they don't seem to be there 😕

When I touch the pickup with my finger on the back of the unit the sound I get is a tap sound every time I touch the pickup, what I don't het is a buzzing sound.

Regards.
Leon

What I am saying is that if there is enough finger to create a resistor to ground, there will be no buzz.

What I prefer to see is actual signal applied to either that terminal, derived from the front end if its working, even a signal generator audio. The head shell of the tone arm should provide signal if it is working and the stylus, or perhaps its wiring is touched.

Hi Leon,

I found my old chassis, but seems that you don't need it.

The only other thing I can offer is to visit you and help to track down the problem. I'm only about 10km north of you. Let me know if you're interested in that approach.

So it is a Calstan 549 chassis after all!

When you replaced the electrolytic filter capacitors, did you disconnect the old can one sitting on top of the chassis? Another capacitor I'd replace is the 250 pf mica that is between the plate of the 6AV6 & chassis. Also replace the heated up screen resistor with a 5 watt 2.2 K type. Is there any way you can check if the valves, especially the 6AQ5 & 6X4, are ok?

Thanks fellas for your help.
I have connected the output ear phone jack of a transistor radio to the pickup terminals with the phone switch turned on and got no sound whatsoever.
As for the electrolytic can on top of the chassis, it has been replaced with new electronics and are inside the old can.
I will change the 250 pf mica over the weekend and give that a go 😊
As for the valves I have others of the same and sadly no change.
I'll give that 250pf mica a go and get back to you.
Many thanks for your verity of input.
Regards.
Leon