What valves are in this radio?

I've asked for the line-up twice, but apparently it's a secret

No it's not a secret some of the valves are in a very tight place and I don't want to create issues getting them out as they are working. I am being a bit of a woos lol. The out put valve is a 1q5gt and another is a 1a7gt , the other two are in a very hard to get position, one of them has a shield on it . They are all octal valves , not the miniature ones.

1A7 and 1A5, along with 1H5 are commonly found in many battery sets of that era. The other one is likely 1N5 or 1P5.

Well the next episode for this little set is that its going to be professionally recovered so I will have it up to new standards yaay.

Well if it is going to be professionally recovered, then the chassis is going to have to be out of it, & there should (depending on the socket) be a way of pushing the spigot up & then levering the valve out, rather than risk damage pulling it out by the glass.

Well it is out of the case and I might get a little braver and do that but its whats above the valve that concerns me.

Took this baby to the fellow to see what he thought about it and its going to get the leather treatment. He showed me a piece of thin leather which is very very close to the thickness of the original leatherette . He does a awesome job and I have told him to take his time and I dont expect it to be done for nicks. The price he quoted was 160 bucks but it includes all new fittings and will look a million bucks.

One question I have with this one. When I recapped it I replaced a 25μF 40 volt electro with a 24μF 600 volt electro only because I didnt want to drive unnessasarily to Jaycar when I had something on hand that would work. Is the higher voltage a issue here I am going to check the resistors this weekend and I may just swap the electro out for something smaller.

Using a higher working voltage than necessary for a given capacitance may result in a higher ESR, which may or may not have implications for the circuit it's used in.

It may also affect the ability of the dialectic to remain "formed" over a long term, but I've no evidence of that to draw on.

Other than that, it's usually the physical size that is the main issue, especially where PCB's are involved.

I assume the 25μF was connected between the output valve's cathode and chassis.

You can replace it with 100μF 16V or similar, it doesn't matter much really what you use there. The 600 volt is a waste really, unless you've got heaps on hand.

Hey Rob, this is a battery set! No cathode bypasses....
25μF might be across the back bias......
If so, as you say, 16V and more capacitance would be OK. Never wise to go too much higher on rated voltage unless you have a good reason to do so, such as physical size to support higher current, which does not apply in a battery set. .

Aluminium electros need at least half their rated voltage to remain properly formed.

Photos uploaded to Post 22.

1Q5GT, 1A7GT, 1H5GT and 1P5GT is the valve lineup for this set. Finally got the nerve to pull them out only to find them pencilled in on the chassis anyway doooh. I have replaced the speaker tranny and checked all resistors. It's still distorted, what could be causing that maybe a weak valve or the speaker tranny being unshielded ( original was shielded and tropicalised ) and close to the tuning gang.

Well we finally found the issue with this little set. When I replaced the speaker transformer, the new one upset the feedback circuit and had to fit a smaller capacitor. It now performs loud and clear. All I need to do is start putting it back together.

This little set is working perfectly now. I am leaning towards it being made by HMV as I have a HMV portable with the exact same knobs. the case is getting a little bling as I am replacing the hinges and catches with Brass items.
Harold has done a awesome job photo shopping the dial for me and all I have to do is get it printed and laminated then clean the dial lense and this baby will be finished.