Your correct Robbert . At the time I didnt have the speaker operational to be able to test it and I was going off the wrong schematic. Its actually a R51 not a R52. I have seen many other sets with these jumpers in place and working well but they would have been different circuits. Even my friend the oldtime valve tech was bamboozled. But a team effort got it going.

As noted if its Nitro: Metho is the enemy. However, the stuff is cactus & the only real solution is to refinish.

As cabinets are not really me. On an occasion where the guy was more interested in a total restoration of his HMV when it came to the cabinet. I explained the situation with the cabinet & I so I fixed the minor structural issues needed & then took it to a professional furniture restorer (Bit like the speaker).

Result: One cabinet that was probably better finished than when it was new & one ecstatic customer. If the customer is happy, that's all that matters.

Well I have found out that the field coil and humbucker coil were both rewound which makes the price of the repair more understandable.

There is a guy in our club that has set up for rewinding. He has found that a lot of that older copper wire's insulation is now brittle and apt to fail if you try and wind anything with it. The newer better quality wire has a different coating which will stand more temp.

A winding that has come loose & can vibrate (especially the old stuff) can chafe its way to disaster.

Unfortunately it is difficult to detect, without "equipment" if the insulation has failed. An insulation tester will only tell you if its leaking to ground, not if its internally shorting. It is not common to see the exact Ohms on a field bobbin and a LV ohm meter will not tell you what is going on at HV.

So clearly there is sound logic (its a speaker) for rewinding the bobbin.

Ok opinion please. This set did not have a power switch. I have a supply of 500k switch Potts I got from the states. Seeing as the volume switch was a bit how ya going I decided to fit a switch pott and it really looks the part. Does this detract from the originality. I don't see myself selling it any time soon.

Some sets had them some did not: Some were on the pot some like the Philips 124 on the bench, needing to be removed to the place it came from, has it on the tone switch, so best kept that way if it has to be repaired. Same deal with a lot of HMV Nippers with a separate switch.

Otherwise its pedantic's & its whatever is convenient.

I was planning on putting it with the tone control as AWA did that quite often but it looks the part now anyway .

The only caution I have about putting a power switch on a volume control is injecting hum into the audio circuit!
If the volume control is placed in a sensitive part of the audio chain such as the grid of the preamp valve, at a high level of impedance, then bringing 50 cycle mains voltage wiring near the pot may inject a level of 50 cycle hum.
That's why designers elect to put the switch on the tone control specially if that control runs at a low impedance like a plate capacitor top cut.
I have put plenty of power switches on volume controls and usually at the grid of the output valve and dressed the mains wiring away from the audio wires. Then the injected hum is down in the general noise level and not a problem. Put mains near your preamp grid and you have trouble.
Its a designers choice and just another thing to consider.
Fred.

Putting the power switch on the tone control means that the volume remains at the level it was when switched off. I feel that the different tone level, (depending how far you turn the pot) is less noticable.
Harold

I tend to agree with Gandhn on this one . In this case the tone control is less effective than I would like it to be but we can fix that.
Fred there is no a.c. hum what so ever in this case so no harm done.

Hey guys I will have this set together very soon. The cabinet is nearly done. I will send some photos to Brad of the under chassis. This set will be another show piece.

Photo uploaded to Post 56.

That underchassis is nice and clean!
The new parts blend in nicely being mostly black.
Power cord gland looks the part. Hint: next time put a circle of wires at the connection end rather than dead straight.
Reason, some idiot or an accident may pull hard on the lead and reef the connection ends off.
Nice job.
Fred.

Yes fred I don't really understand why people use bright yellow caps when they look so out of place. If you look at the first lot of photos you will see the originals are black. As for the power lead I can always loosen it up. Thanks for pointing that out. Will have this baby finished soon

Personally, I don't care what colour capacitors are as long as they aren't wax.