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 Removing a deep scratch from implosion shield.
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 11:00:31 PM on 26 March 2012.
scorezero's Gravatar
 Location: Bentleigh East, VIC
 Member since 4 January 2012
 Member #: 1055
 Postcount: 39

Hi all,

I just bought another HMV M6-A7 (rounded tube) on eBay and it has a deep scratch in the lower part of the screen shield. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it?

I have thought about car polish, but the scratch is quite deep and I don't want to create a really thin spot in the shield.

Anyone recommend a way of filling the scratch with resin or taking it to a repairer? (In Melbourne?)

Any cosmetic parts such as knobs etc. would also be useful if anyone is selling any.

All help appreciated as always.

Cheers,

Adam


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
"What's that big box by the back door? You didn't buy another old TV from eBay did you?"

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 8:24:46 AM on 27 March 2012.
STC830's Gravatar
 Location: NSW
 Member since 10 June 2010
 Member #: 681
 Postcount: 1301

Maybe you could try the type of resin repair carried out on windscreens - O'Brien Glass for example - would cost a bit though.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 11:41:37 PM on 27 March 2012.
scorezero's Gravatar
 Location: Bentleigh East, VIC
 Member since 4 January 2012
 Member #: 1055
 Postcount: 39

I thought about that.... not sure if it would have to be polished or not afterwards, or if the resin would remain clear, I guess it would.

O' Brien glass (should I say O'Bwien?) charge around $180.00 for a callout, that may have increased since I heard about it a few years ago.

I'll probably check Google for plastic repairers as well, I think I have seen some listed.

All thoughts welcome! Smile


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
"What's that big box by the back door? You didn't buy another old TV from eBay did you?"

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 8:27:06 PM on 28 March 2012.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7395

The epoxy used to professionally repair a windscreen stays clear but also has to be injected under high pressures to get all the air out of the bullseye and cracks as much as possible to keep the windscreen legal. This is why the stuff costs a lot. If you can manage to get hold of a smear of it then you are doing well. Though it may be cheaper just to buy a new sheet of glass.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 10:48:01 PM on 28 March 2012.
scorezero's Gravatar
 Location: Bentleigh East, VIC
 Member since 4 January 2012
 Member #: 1055
 Postcount: 39

Hi Brad,

If only it were that simple! It's a curved plastic piece, with a slight tint. (A new one without the tint would be great if my tube were low emission!)

The American Predictas I have and a GE I bought all seem to have the same design, luckily that I only have the deep scratch in the HMV. But I wonder if I can still apply the epoxy to plastic... can't see why it wouldn't work.


Cheers,

Adam


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
"What's that big box by the back door? You didn't buy another old TV from eBay did you?"

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 7:22:44 AM on 29 March 2012.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7395

Ahhh, that does raise the price a bit. Lexan can be shaped to suit your needs but it is very expensive and I suppose the other consideration is the type of emissions you are expecting the screen shield to block. I don't have a great understanding of it. If it is just a matter of lowering the light output then you could probably obtain material with the level of tint you need. If the shield blocks something more harmful such as x-rays the coating on the shield would be more complex.

The idea of repairing the scratch seems easier. I wish I could help with a source of supply. The most common form of epoxy resin is Araldite but it just doesn't go hard enough and it turns yellow. A supplier of surf board or boat repair kits may be able to help. The resins they use would be more suitable and I would imagine that a clear version would be available.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 7 · Written at 9:22:44 AM on 29 March 2012.
STC830's Gravatar
 Location: NSW
 Member since 10 June 2010
 Member #: 681
 Postcount: 1301

I wonder if it would be possible to just run a cyanoacrylate (super) glue or Loktite into the scratch until it is filled up and then carefully polish it back? Better done in the horizontal position. If it is then possible to turn the screen around front to back the repair would be on the inside surface.

Haven't tried this glass repair but I have used a similar technique for filling dents and scratches in timber finished with polyurethane. Quite large dents can be made to disappear.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 8 · Written at 9:44:37 AM on 31 March 2012.
scorezero's Gravatar
 Location: Bentleigh East, VIC
 Member since 4 January 2012
 Member #: 1055
 Postcount: 39

Hi all,

as far as I know, the shield is only plastic designed to prevent injury from flying glass should the tube implode for some reason. I've never known why they are tinted, as it would have made sense just to drive the tube less hard.

None of these old tubes have "integral implosion protection" as the newer ones do (ie no metal band around the front edge) Superglue or surf resin may be an option, as I'd have to agree about Araldite turning yellow.

Unfortunately the shields can't be reversed as they are curved to hug the face of the tube. I could probably leave out the shield altogether if I have to, especially if the tube is weak, but there'd be a visible gap that just wouldn't look right.

As time permits, I'll make a few calls to various plastic repairers and see what they can come up with. I've read about people using wet and dry sandpaper (fine grades of course) then finishing off with car polish. I think that'd work, but it takes a huge amount of time.

Cheers,

Adam


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
"What's that big box by the back door? You didn't buy another old TV from eBay did you?"

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 9 · Written at 11:44:23 AM on 31 March 2012.
Susan's avatar
 Location: Daylesford, VIC
 Member since 6 February 2012
 Member #: 1087
 Postcount: 24

You used to be able to get stuff called "Liquid Plastic". It was sold as a way of repairing cracks in car light lenses. I wouldn't try superglue, it often dries white, and I don't think it can be polished.

Screens were tinted to reduce reflections and increase picture contrast.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 10 · Written at 8:54:55 AM on 6 April 2012.
scorezero's Gravatar
 Location: Bentleigh East, VIC
 Member since 4 January 2012
 Member #: 1055
 Postcount: 39

Hi Susan,

thanks for the heads up, I'll hunt around for it. A friend in the UK will also be interested, as he has the exact same TV with the same problem.

Cheers,

Adam Smile


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
"What's that big box by the back door? You didn't buy another old TV from eBay did you?"

 
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