Hello Gents, new to forum. I've picked up a beautiful survivor Kriesler set. (I've sent the page admin the photos to add to the post)
I'm really chasing any information about it that I can. From are there service manuals available, to capacitor substitutions, is it a nitrocellulose finish, to the best way to clean the metal surfaces.

I cannot find any information or much in the way of photos of this particular set.

thanks
Daniel
Bunbury WA

Welcome to the hobby that only crazy people indulge in!

On the back of the chassis there will be a paper label and/or an ink stamp that has a number like "79-4" or "79-6" or similar
That is the chassis series.
I have all the circuits for these, just tell us what the number is.

I also used to work on them back in the days when they were mainstream. A good quality product.

Silvo generally does well on the plated zinc diecastings that Kriesler used. Unless the zinc has started to corrode under the plating.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POWER IT UP except via a dim bulb tester (google it).

There is a proven method for bringing these TVs back to life. Tell us what experience you have and we can advise you on how to proceed.

Depending on the chassis series and the history of the TV it may need wax paper caps replaced. You do not generally need to replace electrolytics in Krieslers, they used Ducons and they generally respond well to a gentle reawakening using a dim bulb. Unlike UCC electrolytics.

Do not randomly twiddle the adjustments!!

Ducons and they generally respond well to a gentle reawakening using a dim bulb
If you give them mains before, they tend to explode!

79-15

Thanks for the heads up!

The 525V old red Ducons rarely, if ever rejuvenate and it seems to be forgotten on something not used for ages, all of the electrolytics will lose form & fail.

I built a reformer that is stepped 25V to 400V; It can be used to power the HV only, gradually & lock up if it shorts, which is liable to be the electrolytics. Ideal where it has relatively modern filter caps, as a quick less damaging quick test.

No red Ducons in Kriesler TV's.

The point is that it does not matter how old the electrolytic is. As long as its been neglected for over around two years, even new in storage, it can fail as its chemical and will lose "Form" (Polarity) and can present as a short.

It has reached the point here, with any electrolytic it cannot be proven that its not new old stock; That I test them individually as I cannot have any failures in particularly a commercial fix, which are most of my repairs on sets of all era's and not confined to radio.

I have use a dim bulb tester with an incandescent 100watt bulb when powering up recently a TEAC AG-6500 receiver, after I replaced the diodes that formed the bridge rectifier, that had blown. Ian mentioned that there was a proven way to bring some life back into the set. I do not have a variac or anyway currently to introduce voltage slowly....Im assuming on would be a good investment?

Brad suggested he would be able to post up the photos today

IMO variacs are a bit of a waste of money.

You can do the same sort of thing with a lower wattage bulb (40w - 50w). With all valves out (excluding the 1B3, etc), you can safely power it up without the need for a variac. If you don't get any pops, you should be able to power it on safely with valves directly into mains. Check for wax caps.
Take my advice with a pinch of salt! There are people much more knowledgeable than me.

Oli

The big advantage of a dim bulb is, if a fault appears, it will kill the power much quicker than you can react and it will do it while you are not in the room!

But let's not get into a dim bulb vs variac discussion. Different folks, different strokes.

Ducon can electros of this vintage nearly always reform successfully. I have only ever had one that didn't, out of many hundreds.

My email address is unhidden. If you email me I can send you a copy of the circuit for your TV.
79-15 is probably new enough (mid 60's) to not have any paper caps.

Does yours have remote control?

I have two variacs and over the past 60 plus years doing these repairs full time have very rarely used one.
However for checking unknown power transformers for winding voltages and checking turns ratios of speaker transformers etc, a variac can be useful.
My "dim bulb" setup consists of two globe sockets in parallel so can vary the series wattage from 15 watts with one globe, to 200 watts with two 100 watt globes. Or anywhere in between.
If using a variac and there is a major problem it would likely overload and burn as they are only good for few amps. ( and not for long).
So the "dim bulb" Is a very simple arrangement, and an important safety and test device.
So, use it, with maybe a 75 watt globe to start with and monitor voltages both AC and DC on the secondary of the TV's power supply.
After a bit of experience the right globe and the appropriate illumination will tell you the health of the unit under repair.
And if there is a problem all that will happen, at the speed of light is exactly that, bright light.
No harm done, no smoke, no panic.
(Was never called "dim bulb" years ago so must be an Americanism).
JJ

I've sent Brad a copy of the schematic.

It's a relatively low resolution scan but quite readable.

With the possible exception of C134 and C136 there will be no paper caps in that TV. However, if C134 and/or C136 are wax paper caps they should be replaced. Then you need to check the B+Boost voltage and ensure it isn't over 610 volts WRT HT. There is a pot to adjust it. Setting that pot too high will kill the line output transformer, which is made of unobtainium.

C136 would fail S/C, causing low width. Lazy/incompetent service techs would turn up the B+Boost pot to correct it. Within a few weeks the line output transformer would fail shorted turns in the overwind.

C119 and C120 are a known cause of the horizontal oscillator not starting, and red-plating the 6CM5. If these are styro caps (the clear plastic type) they should be replaced with polypropylene caps, NOT polyester, which have a temperature co-efficient. Use the wrong caps and the hor hold will drift out as the set warms up.

This is a very high performance chassis. Its only real weakness is the 6X9 and 6U9 valves in the IF which like all these 10 pin "Decal" valves wore out fairly quickly and may need to be replaced.

If you have crackles in the sound, it will be the 6GW8.

If the vertical rolls when cold, replace the 6GV8 in the vertical.

With radios, for decades I rarely use a Variac and have never used a dim bulb in probably 50 years.

I normally start a refitted set with a voltmeter monitoring B. The mains side will have been tested as for tag & test, before it is powered.

Normally start up is via my isolation transformer which has 3A circuit breaker on the secondary & a large "Kill" switch.

Photos uploaded.

One of the problems I have experienced with the 79-15 is the reversing contacts of the tuner motor (yes, cord remote).
The contacts are mounted behind the tuner motor and the actual assembly is mounted on a plastic type material.
When the contacts get dirty the contacts arc and become very hot.
This melts the assembly and ruins the fine forward/reverse contact alignment.
They usually can be straightened, cleaned and bent into position, but will fail again if the tuner itself is not serviced by way of cleaning and shaft lubrication. Excess motor current and dirty contacts causing over heating.
JJ