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 Stalled Restoration/Need Picture Tube
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 1:24:31 PM on 9 September 2025.
Labrat's avatar
 Location: Penrith, NSW
 Member since 7 April 2012
 Member #: 1128
 Postcount: 403

Hi Folks.
I am looking for a 25" picture tube, ideally a 25NP4. This tube type seems to have been a favourite of H.M.V.
I guess almost any 25" B&W tube would do. They all had the safety screen bonded to the screen face.

Without another tube I might have to abandon the project. The set in question is a H.M.V. Windsor 25 inch with the V2 chassis.

The tube does not have to be perfect, just have about 0.5ma emission.

Regards

Wayne.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
I love the smell of ozone in the morning.

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 3:54:58 PM on 9 September 2025.
Johnny's avatar
 Location: Hobart, TAS
 Member since 31 July 2016
 Member #: 1959
 Postcount: 582

Assuming you are not going to put a lot of hours on it, have you tried increasing the filament voltage.
They used to sell inline transformer purpose made for this.
I'm sure to have one or two in my junk pile.
And they used to work well and believe it or not for quite some time.
JJ


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 7:14:38 PM on 10 September 2025.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2643

I have one of those tubes (Thomas) in my HMV Y2-D3.

It was looking very sad but I rejuvenated it with a box I built that implements a method that was first documented on the UK forum.

Very, very successful!

Is the existing one completely dead or down to air? In other words is there hope?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 7:59:56 AM on 11 September 2025.
Labrat's avatar
 Location: Penrith, NSW
 Member since 7 April 2012
 Member #: 1128
 Postcount: 403

The set has some issues but I hoped to have it as a working display.
The safety screen of the bonded tube is cracked. Quite impressive. It now appears (after further testing) to be down to air.

The heater was intact, and although I never saw it glow, I could feel its warmth.
My feelings are that the heater went open circuit because of air in the tube.

Unless I can get something to fit, I will have to get rid of the set. Space is always at a premium.

I have two non-bonded 23" tubes at home saved for other projects that might come along. They are not the greatest but if anyone is in a prediciment, Give me a call.

All the best.

Wayne.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
I love the smell of ozone in the morning.

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 10:44:50 AM on 12 September 2025.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2643

Actually, no-one in Oz made a bonded 25" tube.

The only bonded (laminated faceplate) CRT made here was the 23HP4, as seen in the original Pye Pedigree and many other sets.

All the other non-naked CRTs were either shellbond or rim-banded

A shellbont tube is basically just a naked CRT glued into a pressed metal shell with epoxy. This holds the faceplate in compression and avoids implosions that might be caused by blows to the front.

A rim-banded tube is the same thing but done with a steel compression band, much like a packing crate band but with mounting lugs fitted to the corners. I often wonder how many tube implosions they had while setting up the machine that tensioned and clamped that band!

None of these tubes actually have two layers of glass on the faceplate,

I actually had a factory-fitted Thomas shellbond tube in an HMV once that carried the part number of a naked tube but someone had hand-written on it "Shellbond".


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 6:09:14 PM on 12 September 2025.
OliBHolmes's avatar
 Location: Nuriootpa, SA
 Member since 28 June 2025
 Member #: 2734
 Postcount: 40

Like my Calstan!


 
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