I cut my teeth on colour TV's servicing that particular model. It is a C212 delta gun set and they were hideously unreliable but worked very well once all the myriad of faults often present were cleared and a proper alignment done. Things to look out for are cooked electrolytics in the power supply, poor connections at the push down connectors at the top of the Hor Deflection PCB (best bypassed with individual flying leads), Dry joints on the Hor Deflection PCB, particularly the SCR related hor scan capacitors, Dry joints on the convergence panel, burnt up wirewound pots on the convergence panel just to name a few.

Have I scared you yet?

As previously said they are not a good set for beginners and are rather unforgiving. It is imperative that the power supply is adjusted to make the 25V rail correct as all other voltages are referenced to this. At the very least I would remove all the boards (carefully as they can snap corners off) and clean all the pin contacts with Deox spray and a cotton bud. Then carefully inspect all the boards (particularly the Hor Scan PCB) for dry joints. Refit them all and try again. You may find things improve just doing this.

Be very careful lifting the chassis to the service position. It can pop out of the hinge brackets unexpectedly. Many CRT's were necked this way.

IIRC they used to have a circuit diagram in a plastic bag inside the cabinet, unless someone has already nicked it.

If you have never worked on a colour set before I would suggest finding someone near you who has and has some experience with these sets. They are not for the feint hearted.

Having said all that yours looks like it came out of a time machine and the CRT looks very good. In the right hands it could come up very well. That cabinet was a stock item in the range made locally in Ringwood Vic (IIRC). Real timber veneer. Models were Diplomat 22, Ambassador 26 and Consulate 26 (yours).

Very good point re: the hinge-out chassis Irext.

I had one crash on me and damaged the neck board. CRT escaped serious injury but badly bent pins needed straightening

Regarding the model, I think it's a C211 not C212.

I,m fairly certain that it's a C212 as it looks like the later tuner. The C211 had an MSP tuner which was locally made and a bit flimsy. The later tuner was an import but much more substantial and gave no trouble, unlike the rest of the set. I still have a soft spot for them. EMI went all out on that design by using Thyristor scan, Switch mode power supply (design stolen from Luxor), flip up chassis, removable colour decoder (set would display B&W if removed), modular construction. On paper it looked like a winner but the execution was something else. The quality control was appalling. Many sets were dead on arrival needing repairs before they could be delivered. The C221 by comparison was so much better and went for a more conservative approach ie transistor Hor scan, inline CRT etc. If they had brought that one out 1st EMI's reputation would have stayed intact but alas too little too late.

Thanks everyone for all your assistance.

I believe it's a C211 because the tuner in it is actually shot...

The ring around the tuner doesn't engage when I spin it meaning I can't currently adjust tuning on any of the channels. Luckily for me the channels I have tested have all been adjusted right.

After checking the fault guide sent to me by "monochrometv" it appears that the vertical height issue may be related to capacitors located at C318 and or C241 on one of the circuit boards.

Symptom:
Loss of vertical scan affecting two thirds of the fop half of the picture or in some cases loss of scan over a few centremetres at the top which may progressively become greater.

Cause:
Open circuit or partial open circuit of C241 (2200 μF electro. on horizontal scan PCB2) "plessey" type EPC 2266.

Repair:
Replace the "Elna" type CE69W (P) EMI part no 2692071 (2500μF 80VW)


This is just me guessing, but if I was to remove the boards and clean everything I can imagine this should replace this cap with a modern equivalent. (if one exists)

maybe one of you more experienced techs could advise if i'm onto something.

Yours is definitely a C212. The C211 had a separate fine tuning knob off to one side rather than the concentric one which yours has. Otherwise they are virtually identical. The fine tuning arrangement on yours is probably quite repairable. The lubricant on the nylon gear which engages with each channel biscuit slug has probably dried up due to lack of use and time. Cleaning it off and applying a small amount of silicone grease should fix it. That means removing the tuner assembly from the front panel which is a bit fiddly if you've never done it before.

I have to concur with you Irext. I only now realised my confusion------C212 as opposed to C221.

Help me out here, the "good chassis" had a push-button tuner with green lamps which often needed replacing--Y or N?

Your'e correct. The C221 had the press button tuner (with the little green lamps) transistor Hor Scan, inline tube and a degree of reliability. They were a breath of fresh air after the C211.

Hey Everyone,

Latest update is (Labrat) from this forum has reached out to me and offered his help.

He's been a big help.

He came to my location and inspected the TV, confirmed it was in fact a C211. (it seems to be a bit of a Frankenstein unit as the circuit board colour and material varies. It also does nto have a serial number listed anywhere on the unit.

The tube is definitely a Delta Gun design and when plugged into a tube tester resulted in being in like new condition.

The unit was doing some really strange things when we attempted to calibrate it. The front colour controls barely did anything but adjusting the contrast seemed to disable colour completely.

At this point I will start replacing electrolytic's board by board and test the functionality along the way.

I will keep you all updated on my progress.

Kudos to Labrat.

I too cut my teeth repairing these sets. I have a very low hours unit stored away for future display. And I also had the horrible experience of necking the tube while lifting the chassis. This occurred at Sunshine Tech during my radio trades apprenticeship final year. Embarrassing, although when we examined the chassis hinges they were very worn from many many liftings!

Robert

I feel your pain Robert,

The chassis dropped at one point and wedged itself too far in resulting in some repairs needed for the side wood.

I freaked out because we were millimeters away from necking a perfect tube.

Robert,

What year did you do your 'final' at Sunshine?

My final was '78. We were let loose on B&W Solid State Pye's only in those days.
Never saw a colour chassis at the tech. although all of us were knee-deep with them at work.

Were Mr. Wiltshire, Mr. Hodgekinson and Mr. Steel still instructors then?

Hi Robert. I too did my apprenticeship as a radio tradesman at Sunshine Tech finishing in 1978. I then did a Certificate of Technology Electronics at RMIT finishing in 1983. It's a small world. The teachers names you mentioned do ring a bell. I remember we used to sneak down the pub at lunch time until we saw one of the instructors there also. We changed pubs then to the one in Glengala Road.

WRT the chassis hinges on the C211/212 they were often fitted very poorly to the cabinet and misaligned such that the chassis would pop out of them unexpectedly when hinging it upwards. Also IIRC there is a contrast preset on the luminance board which if advanced too much causes the odd luminance effects and green hue. I have a full service manual for C211/212 in my filing cabinet. I also have a 26inch regunned tube and yoke in my shed. Just can't part with them.

Hot dogs, chips and cans of Coke at the Sunshine Tech were my staple diet.

The ring-pulls from all the Coke cans were daisy-chained and strung across the classroom blackboard.

There was also a Mr. Drury who used to race Mini-Minors (---"hell has no fury like Mr. Drury'') All good blokes those instructors.
Most of them were ex RAAF techs. Talking of RAAF, Sunshine organised their trainees to go to RAAF School of Radio for a day trip
to learn the NASA soldering technique.

Half an hour prep work for each solder joint. Cleanliness was godliness as far as airborne (and space-borne) soldering went. It was
explained to us that a tiny air bubble inside a dry-joint was a potential mini bomb at very low atmospheric pressure.

Maybe we should start another thread for ex Sunny Tech Techs. Another name I remember was Mr Rolf who was as far as I recall, full of it! He had many tall stories.

Back to the C211/212. I think replacing every electrolytic could be overkill. Certainly the ones in the power supply and perhaps some in the Vert and Hor o/p stages but I think the small signal ones should be o/k. The ones in the power supply were mounted next to some large wire wound resistors and got cooked. There was a fairly extensive modification to mount those resistors on a tag strip mounted on the side of the power supply chassis. Another adjustment which did cause luminance problems when incorrectly set was the beam current adjustment. The pot was mounted on the control slider pcb. (it's all coming back to me! like a nightmare). As previously stated I have a full service manual so if you need any scans done just send me an email (it's unhidden in my profile).