G'Day Folks
Heather and I are on 19 days annual leave, finally a break from the crawling out of bed at 3am and driving the hour and half to work in Brisbane.
Only one week left.
Got around to finishing a few radios Kriesler 11-28 and a 11-49.

But I was able to look at the computermatic.
Replaced the paper caps and a 680K resistor on the wiper of the height control that was reading 2.2M, gave me vertical height that I could adjust, emission seemed a bit low, but after running it for a few days it has improved by heaps.
we have been watching a few movies each night, but then no picture, I was out of the room at the time.
I had thoughts of a LOPT failure, but all seemed good, replaced the 6CM5, 6AL3 and the IS2, picture is back and brilliant.
The sound from this TV is fantastic, the audio range is great lots of bass in there.

watching the Thunderbirds at the moment, that show was so far ahead of it's time, I am sure some aerospace engineers are using ideas from the show.
I am sure the shows on TV today have more puppets in them that the TB', well puppets or muppets, I guess that is reality TV.

What I was wondering, is how do you wire the tuner assembly to select active channels, when using the forward or back controls to stop on different channels.
I have the remote and pressing the back or forward buttons on either the remote or the TV, tend to skip a large number of channels, stopping on channel 3, 10 and I forget the other channels.
I have the WISI 10 channel MATV modulators, Currently the combo DVD/VCR is on Channel 2, I have to manually select 2.
I will use the DVB-T and DVB-S tuners on other channels.
There are some details on the back cover, but time and insects have taken their toll on the details and the circuits, so not sure of the procedures for setting the active channels.
Does anyone have a pdf of a service manual or any details.
One tele down, five to go.
The computermatic is the same age as me, but it's in better condition.

Many thanks
Peter VK4KHP

finally a break from the crawling out of bed at 3am and driving the hour and half to work

A 3 hour round trip -- add that to the work day and that's the equivalent of two jobs, only one of which earns a payslip.

There is an index cam disc.

On this disk there are plastic cams secured by screws. Each cam can be moved in towards the centre of the disc (skip channel) or out past the edge (stop on this channel.)

On that chassis, make sure you set the B+Boost up correctly. 610 volts is correct from memory. Otherwise you will eventually get an EHT transformer overwind failure.

Thanks Ian.
That was embarrassingly easy to adjust the cams, if I had a closer look, I would have seen the screw for the other channels was in a different position.

Will check the voltage..
I did see a pot with a label for Boost HT Voltage adjustment, saying do not adjust without reference to the circuit diagram for details.

On the circuit diagram, it says "Boost HT adjustment to be set between 580 & 610 Volts dc, with respect to HT using BHT control." Well I think it says that, some bits are missing. And Ian your memory is spot on...
It shows a meter positive connected to B+B off the transformer side of the BHT control and the negative side connection I can't make out where to connect.
Do I connect the negative side of the meter to the HT rail, only assuming here, as it said with respect to HT.

It's a long Day GTC, Heather works at a hospital on the way to work, so it's not that bad, can get very boring driving by your self, just seem to getting a little bit deaf in the left ear these days.
I have been at this place now for ten years, used to work further away with the the previous place of work, but spent two weeks at a time in the field repairing, servicing and calibrating confined space gas detectors for the mines and councils, would do the Bowen Basin in Queensland and then spend a week at the workshop to transfer all the job data and generate calibration certificates, replenish the van and head off to NSW from Mudgee down to Wollongong for another two weeks, I think the worst places on those trips was the sewage treatment works, although there was one mine in central Queensland, that when I applied H2S calibration gas to the instruments, I would have a swarm of fly's in the work van, closing the doors wasn't an option in the 45+ temps

I now like to be confined to the workshop, restrained to my workbench with an ESD strap and not servicing anything related to a gas detectors, it's all surveying instrumentation these days.

I can provide the following relevant Kriesler service documents:

79-4B & 79-5B Model Handbook Series A
79-5A Service Handbook Series B
79-5B Service Handbook Series B (Addendum to 79-5A Service Handbook Series B)
TV Service Notes No. 25

There is quite a bit of stuff there and it will take me a bit of time to prepare it all. So please be patient.

Many thanks folks, for the assistance.

G'Day Monochrome TV, many thanks for the offer of the service manuals, there is no urgency, when ever you get some spare time.
Next up is the Astor 3in1, I know I have been saying that for a few years now, but we have finally sorted out the shed and the other rooms that we were building.
the 79-5 stays in the radio room.
The Astor, and Breville 3in1's are in the lounge section of the shed and another, Kriesler and awa are stored as distant projects.

Here is the Kriesler 79-5B service information I promised last week.

The 79-5B chassis service handbook is an addendum of the 79-5A handbook so I've included that as well.

Kriesler 79-4A Service Handbook Series B
Kriesler 79-4A & 79-5B Service Handbook Series A
Kriesler 79-5A Circuit Diagram
Kriesler 79-5B Circuit Diagram
Kriesler 79-5E Service Handbook Series B
Kriesler 79-4A Service Notes # 25

just seem to getting a little bit deaf in the left ear these days.

Documents uploaded to Post 7.

G'Day Folks.
Many thanks Monochrome and Brad for the posting the manuals.
I was able to find the correct points to measure the BHT, I couldn't make out all the details on the circuit that was stuck to the back panel of the television. It did require adjustment to bring it into spec and bought the scan in, it was a tad wide.
many thanks Ian, for pointing out the adjustment.
I find myself watching the Kriesler almost every night now, there is a lot of Australian content from around the 60's and 70's on youtube
most it it old ads, as well as the collection of monochrome movies I am finding on dvd at times.
The tele is the same age as me, now it's in better condition..

Yes, regarding the BHT control, most techs back in the day did not understand its significance and would wind it up so as, they thought, to allow for loss of width due to the 6CM5 aging.

The stabilisation circuit (which they were defeating), was intended of course to allow for aging! And all they were doing was hastening the demise of the whole system.

A bit like those people who set their aircon to 16 degrees instead of 22 or 23 on a hot day and then keep switching it off when it gets too cold...

...and then keep switching it off when it gets too cold

Or ring up the serviceman and make a warranty claim every time it ices up.

My advice is usually to set an air conditioner to 21.5 in summer and 23 in winter. If anyone is not comfy with the result simply add or delete clothing as necessary. Most air conditioners are not designed to freeze anyone or make winter nice and toasty and no typical air conditioner will work properly when the outside temperature is greater than 35 degrees.

Set ours to 25 in summer, just need to get the humidity out of the house, more so in February, the heat is fine if it is a dry heat, but high heat and humidity, it seems to really drain the body of energy.

Winter, we used to use the fire places, but the chasing around for dry wood after you come home from work and it's dark, because you under estimated the amount you needed the weekend before.
So the aircon seems to be the lazy option for us these days, and we run it up to the 20 to 25 mark.
we live on a mountain ridge and there is a clear view across the Lockyer valley, from the south to the north and nothing between us and the Great dividing range, Toowoomba is roughly west of us around 65km away.
So when we get the westerly winds, it has a dramatic effect on the temperatures, with the wind chill factor.
Mind you we used to live in main street of Laidley to the west of the mountain and the temps are around 5 to 7 degrees cooler, when there is no wind.
We had -8.0 on a couple of mornings about 11-12 years ago in Laidley.
I used to do the mine trips and a woke up one morning at a motel north of Lithgow, got to the car and the windscreen was iced up and took a while to clean.
and as I was driving back to the mine on the road to Bathurst around 4am, we went down a dip and the wind screen iced up again, wipers didn't help, I had to wind the window down and stick the head out to see were I was going, I was very awake and refreshed, by the time I got to the mine.

My weather station http://members.iinet.net.au/~vk4khp/
Looks like I have a need to change batteries, getting some dropouts from the radio link, and will have to change the QC settings in the software to discard the erratic bad data, I can tell you we didn't have 4800mm of rain.
I think we may have had 4 mm, it is very dry in the valley, most of the dams that aren't connected to a bore, have dried out, ours included..