and one that had been rubbed off entirely.

If it's 9-pin with a silver mesh shield inside, then 6AN7. But if 7-pin, then 6BE6.

then 6AN7. But if 7-pin, then 6BE6.
I'll check again.
Nine pin! 6AN7 it is.

UPDATE:

I plugged in the CRT tester to no avail, but it turns out the meter that I wired into the circuit draws enough power from the battery for the resistance of the pin out of the CRT to not even read

But... Ian and I figured that just wiring a LED bulb in its place, and comparing its brightness to determine whether the picture tube is naffed will do the job.

But... I am currently on holiday in NSW and unfortunately can't take a ~90kg wooden cabinet on carry on, so It'll have to stay put until I have a couple of days to work on it then.

I have had some valves sent to my holiday address so I don't have to wait for snail mail to Adelaide.

Unfortunately all this excitement has me itching to get home and make some progress. Oh well.

I will make another update if I find any more info on the Calstan in my idle time, and once I get back I will be back to the restoration.

Thanks,
Oli

This may be of interest to those following this thread:

https://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/admiral_16f110_16g110.pdf

The Admiral 16G110 & 16F110 chassis appear to be similar, with the latter for models using the Son-R remote control. These were the second last series chassis before Admiral went belly-up. The last Admiral chassis were the Series 5, 16H110 & 16K110.

Pictures uploaded of the radio/amplifier chassis show a Calstan model 569. Valve line-up: 6BE6, 6N8, 6GW8, 6GW8 & 6V4. The chassis is post 1964/5 as 3UL Warragul is at its 531 kHz frequency.

Photo uploaded to Post 34.

Pictures uploaded of the radio/amplifier chassis show a Calstan model 569.
Yes, That looks exactly like the one in my Calstan, all the way down to the red plate that the wire travels across (and the fact that it has the serial no. 569 haha). That one looks like it had had its capacitor replaced!

https://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/admiral_16f110_16g110.pdf
Thankyou very much! That is a big help! Does this mean that I could fit a Son-R to it if I wanted?!

Thankyou for everyones help, my valves that Ian very kindly sent came yesterday, I'll fit them into the chassis as soon as I can, and I will report back to everyone.

Hello all,

Great news! After changing some Hi-Quals and some Di-pols, as well as reconditioning the electros using my dim bulb...

We have a raster!

Although I think I will have to take apart the tuner, as I'm not getting any snow on the screen at all. The RCA to RF converter I purchased is for American channels, so I don't think that the sound and picture would line up. (From memory the channels are 5Hz in Australia, while Americans have a 6Hz difference between channels, correct me if I'm wrong).

So I will put together Ian's modulator(?*) and I will crack open the tuner and see whether I'll get any snow once I've cleaned it up a bit.

Thanks,
Oli


*I think it is a modulator, anyway..!

Photos uploaded to Post 37.

Hello Oli.

The sound standard switch on your R.F. Motulator, needs to be set to position B/G (5.5MHz ) for correct sound.

Good luck with the restoration.

Wayne.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a lack of snow indicate issues in the IF strip or video output?

IF gain on these sets was never high so no tuner, no snow. The B+ voltages to the tuner point to an issue, probably the 820k - 1m cascode bias resistors.

He gets flashes when changing channels so the IF is probably OK.

The sound standard switch on your R.F. Motulator, needs to be set to position B/G (5.5MHz ) for correct sound.
Thanks! I will try that once I replace the resistors in the tuner, just ordered them this afternoon. Next day delivery for the win!

Also, the TV was working fine for a while, and now when I turn the tone (?*) the screen goes black, and only is a picture present when the dial is turned clockwise all the way. It is placed behind the on/off dial. Thoughts?

I also soldered a proper balun wire pair from the tuner to a new balun, reducing the chance of no signal from my DVD player / video source.

Also, I'm not getting any sound from the speakers when I have the TV powered on. Thoughts?

P.s got my first 'boot' from a TV - I turned off the TV at the switch, but not at the power or unplugged it, so the power going to the radio and record player got me. Luckily just across my nail. Quite a 'shock' haha....

That is all!

Thanks,
Oli

*I think it is the tone, I'd have to have a proper look at the schematic.

UPDATE:
It has been a long and exciting justoveramonth.

Also, there might be some overlap from my last post, but the story flows easier from where I start.

I went to turn off the television after enjoying my handiwork, and lo and behold, something had to go wrong. turned the on/off dial just a little as I was turning it off, and the screen goes totally blank. Hmm, thats not right. As I was turning the on/off dial, behind that is the tone. I twiddled the tone, and only when it's all the way clockwise, does the raster come back. Double hmm. Panicking slightly, I turn off the television. BUT. It turns off all the way, all but a bright dot just off the centre of the screen stays, slowly fading.

Worried that I'll cause a phosphor burn in future, I discharged the CRT and took out the chassis. I needed to do this anyway as there was no snow in the picture. Ian and I figured it'd be best for me to de-solder the tone completely, so thats what I did. We'll see whether that fixed it!

With the chassis out and no snow present, Ian and I, again, figured that maybe there was a problem with the tuner. So tuner disconnected, unscrewed, and Biscuit Barrel (that's what I'm calling it) out. I replaced all the faulty resistors in the tuner (I think there were about five or six. Lucky I have small fingers!), and polished all the silver studs on each biscuit. But then! as I was reassembling it, the ceramic variable capacitor at the front of the tuner cracked off where one of the keys that engage with it are placed. Strife! Turns out it wasn't that big of a deal, and some high viscosity super glue did the trick. Good for another fifty-odd years! (I hope)

Hopefully that'll help the lack of snow!

After having a look over the top of the board, I found one cap connecting to the noise gate was detached, so I just cut off the other side and left it bare. I'll turn off the noise gate anyway!

Time to test the voltages. Ian cooked up a voltage testing worksheet for me to work through. On the IF board, I got through the cathode and G2 on the first 6BZ6 (on AC voltages, stupidly of me) and then shorted the cathode of the second 6BZ6 to ground, in turn frying a resistor, and letting out the dreaded magic smoke. All for an AC reading that means nothing! After sitting on the television for a week or so, worried that I'll do the same to something worse, I decided that this television wasn't going to fix itself (also I had invited friends over to watch Kingsman on it at some point) and that I should get back to it. So I did! Now with my renewed fear of the television's high voltages, I set back to testing.

I replaced that resistor, and Ian said that so I have no chance of shocking myself, I could solder some tinned copper wire to each point that I was to test and create, believe it or don't, testpoints! So I did that, all eleven of them, and clipped my lead to them in turn, and to ground. When seeing whether I had shorted anything after soldering, (I hadn't), I saw something smoking. Uh oh. Craning my neck to the back of the chassis, I saw what looked like smoke come from the valve socket. Weird. I take out the 6EM5 that sits in that socket, and see whether it still smokes. It does. But! I see a ceramic capacitor behind the socket that has a little charred spot on it that is practically spouting smoke. At least it didn't smell as bad as the resistor!

Turns out that the capacitor is connected to the 6EM5 and speaker, and because I didn't have a speaker hooked up while the television was on, that little 4.7nF was taking the whole load. I took out the 6EM5 and burnt cap until I get closer to putting the chassis in.


"From those numbers I could see the IF amps were being shut down by the AGC. That was confirmed by the no volts around the video amp. Missing 125v rail could only be a short to Gnd or an OC dropper resistor. Heater to cathode short in 6BU8 was one possible cause. Pull the valve, point K still the same, not that. Reading resistance of R503 in circuit indeterminate. But if still SC to Gnd resistor would get v hot. It didn’t, so it’s OC." Thanks Ian!!

The readings I got pointed to an issue with a 5 watt 4.7k resistor under the power supply that had gone o/c.
As it was still early afternoon by this point and I couldn't do anymore with the TV, I decided to try to tackle the radio. But I'll explain that once I get the television running.

That leads us to now! I'm running down to Jaycar tomorrow for that resistor. I edge closer to an actual picture!

Did anyone want pictures?

Thanks,
Oli