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 Return to top of page · Post #: 16 · Written at 7:17:15 PM on 28 June 2018.
Morren's Gravatar
 Location: Killarney Vale, NSW
 Member since 19 March 2012
 Member #: 1112
 Postcount: 25

I was watching this and saw the Kriesler colour and wondered if it was the set you picked up that I found at Springfield near Gosford! It seems it was. The E1-01 is still going strong.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 17 · Written at 12:22:54 PM on 1 July 2018.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Yes it is!

The original owner wrote to me enclosing the instruction manuals but didn't include a forwarding address so we have lost contact. I would have love to have told her about the TV series.

That TV needed a LOT of work. But the fundamentals were still good.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 18 · Written at 7:43:05 PM on 2 July 2018.
Morren's Gravatar
 Location: Killarney Vale, NSW
 Member since 19 March 2012
 Member #: 1112
 Postcount: 25

Well if anyone could get it working again, you could! Glad it could be shared by the entire country!

Nice work!


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 19 · Written at 1:33:48 PM on 3 July 2018.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

Yes well you don't expect to find paper capacitors in a late 1970s TV. But yes, they exist, called "mixed dielectric" capacitors. Several of them in high voltage high current positions, disguised in plastic cylinders. Be aware!

And the S/C yoke coupler electro in the vertical. Kept tripping the over current shut-down.

Toughest to find was the long-term intermittent vertical fault. Turned out to be a bad PTC resistor in the vertical drive circuit, in the frame module.

Plus the usual exploding Miniprint mains filter caps!

CRT is a 20AX, first Philips "self-converging" tube. Geometry no-where near as good as the previous Delta tube.

Wish I'd had time to replace the little incandescent lamps in the control panel before the TV was needed for the shoot.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 20 · Written at 6:28:09 PM on 3 July 2018.
Morren's Gravatar
 Location: Killarney Vale, NSW
 Member since 19 March 2012
 Member #: 1112
 Postcount: 25

Well it looked as though it was producing an amazing picture. I'll bet if you hooked it up to a hi def box, you'd be happy to have it as your main telly.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 21 · Written at 7:11:46 AM on 27 July 2018.
Wa2ise's avatar
 Location: Oradell, US
 Member since 2 April 2010
 Member #: 643
 Postcount: 831

If your hidef box has an S-video output jack, you could prefilter the luma to notch out the luma frequencies that happen to be in the range of the chroma subcarrier frequencies. What happens if these luma freqs are not removed, you would get false colours on the TV (if the TV is a simple notch filter chroma-luma separator).



But if you remove the luma frequencies that only end up making the false colours on your TV set, before mixing the chroma subcarrier in to create composite video, then your TV will produce a better looking picture.



The values below are for NTSC, but the circuit would be similar with PAL. Use 230pF caps in place of the 390pF caps. OR keep the 390pF caps and change the 5.6uH coils to 3.3uH coils.



You then feed this composite video into a TV modulator (or use the one in a VCR).

More 3/4th to the bottom of my page http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/tv.html


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 22 · Written at 3:54:49 PM on 27 July 2018.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2476

The Kriesler, being a high-end design, already has quite good chroma-luma filtering, at least as good as could be achieved short of comb filtering which was impractical in those days. Later designs commonly used ceramic filters, not as good.


 
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