Hello to you all, I'm new to valve radio just started to find my way,
I have a old Kriesler 11-81 been on the shelf for a long time worked for years. .It has just stoped working, a strong burning smell and it stoped dead , I have changed the caps.replaced 6AQ5 & 6V4, cleaned out the dirt and dust, still no go.
could any member be able to offer any help with a few pointers ?
a copy of a circut plan would be a great help to me find my way. thanks ...clive willson

I thought I saw reference to several people chasing that circuit? I would need to see a copy before getting in too deep.

Burning tends to indicate short circuit. Thats a set after 1955 so I have no circuit.

Some of the early sets had rubber coated wire, that is notorious for going hard & falling off or turning to gel. I have just finished rewiring a philips with that crap in it.

It will short if its touching the chassis & some transformers can short where the wires come through the chassis. Visually inspect it to see if there is that sort of thing & if it's been repaired. Solder dags where they should not be.

If it has old electrolytics & paper capacitors in it, it should never have been fired up. They are likely to be the cause if it has not been re-fitted.

Marc

Hi Marc,

I have copies of most of the post 1955 schematics.

Email me at gfr53bigpond.com and I'll reply with copies of any that you require.

Cheers, Graham...

Hi all.

I have sent Clive a copy of the diagram and some background on what I had to do with these sets. It sounds like his set met with the same problems that I had in one of mine. I will put on the bottom of this post what I sent in the email. It took me a while to get the first one I did working again but now it is great.


(eMail)
Hi

This is all the info that I have on the 11-81. They are a good radio as far as replacing the caps. Just watch some of the resistors. In the 2 of the sets that I restored both of mine needed R16, R13, R3 and R8. Also watch the caps on pin 5 of the 6AQ5. It tends to short and will take out that valve.

The only other thing that caught me out was the connection for the Gram i/p. The connections on mine weren’t that great so I now have them shorted together internally. Also they will perform better if you earth the chassis by using a 3 core plug. You will want to do this anyway as the power cable on these sets is knotted and 2 of mine the cable was starting to crack just before the hard plastic grommet on the back of the chassis.

Overall when done the radio will be a great unit. I use mine daily in the kitchen and sounds great.

Just another point while I think of it. The speaker has the lamp holder in front of it and this tends to trap fluff and grit over the years. It will sound horrible until you clean all of the stuff out of it. The plastic case was glued together in the factory using some type of glue that generally isn’t great today. Check each joint and run some type of rubber glue (Contact cement) along each join on the inside of the radio. This will stop the case vibrating when it is all assembled and putting out a decent level of audio witch this unit can.

Hope you have fun

Hello to you all,
I have your emails, thanks, thay will be a good help to me.
I will keep you posted how I get along.
Clive Willson

Gfr53. Circuit may be required if this set decides not to play ball. I think once the old caps are tossed & any dud resistors replaced things may be diffent.

It is advisable to check resistors as caps are replaced. I threw several out in a set this week as I went along. Saves work & grief later.

If that set has can type electrolytics, do not leave them in circuit. There is a temptation to use their tags and just add a new cap. This is a recipe for disaster. Note if the can is sitting on an insulator, the negative does not go directly to earth.

Marc

While we are on the point of the 11-81. Does anyone have a chassis with a good power transformer or just the transformer. I destroyed one of my sets a few months ago but the rest of my set is in great condition.

I will be more careful in future with power Drill!!!!!

Or if anyone wants IFs or other parts I got a near complete chassis!!!!

That's a change I have a Philips 132L and the genius that changed the speaker transformer drilled a hole in the cone & distorted it. The two feedback wires were also floating as they did not have the nouse to put them back in their correct phase.

I will keep an eye out for a transformer. Collector has a few not worth repairings and I have an AWA in a butchered case that may end up scrap (has to go back to owner first).

Marc

Thanks Marc

I was just having one of thoes bad days. I got the set fully working and sounding great. I decided to get rid of the old power cable and use a different cord clamp. (The type that looks like a nut that closes fingers down on the cable) I slipped with the drill and ended up putting the drill through 2 layers of windings on the transformer before the drill stopped.

Next one of these I do up I will remove the transformer first