There is a mid 1960's Philips Console TV with remote control on Ebay at the moment for the modest price of $10. Set is located in Sydney.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/tv-/111198931145?pt=AU_Televisions&hash=item19e3f908c9.

Hopefully the perception that there are never nice old TV's for sale in Sydney can be put to rest!

Also for sale in Sydney is this lovely early 1970's Sony B&W portable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/vintage-sony-solid-state-tv-set-/151151151521?pt=AU_Electronics_Vintage_Electronics&hash=item23314f89a1.

I'm grabbing that set because it turns on unlike my 1962 HMV P1, I'm going to hook it to an RF modulator and watch DVDs on it

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"I'd rather have a CRT than nothing" - me
"people just throw working CRTs out, it is NOT FUNNY!" -me

Also, it will be turned into a guitar amplifier with a working CRT TV implemented in it if it decides to kick the bucket, I'll restore it and add a little guitar amplifier into it that is hooked to the original speaker and it can be used as a EQ amp

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"I'd rather have a CRT than nothing" - me
"people just throw working CRTs out, it is NOT FUNNY!" -me

I see a note added on 30th October says that it doesn't actually work.

I'll fix that, replace all the caps and resistors, and any valves that may be bad, and then it will have a nice feel to my room

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"I'd rather have a CRT than nothing" - me
"people just throw working CRTs out, it is NOT FUNNY!" -me

Nathan,

You have to remember that a restoration may not be as simple as just replacing the capacitors, resistors and valves... A set of that age may have a weak or dead CRT, which could be beyond rejuvenation. You could use a cathode booster with it, but that will drastically reduce the tube's life.

If the CRT is dead, you may be looking for a replacement for a long time. If it does test good for emission and shorts, than there may be other faults lurking in the set, more complicated than just "replacing capacitors and resistors". These could include a faulty LOPT, faulty mains transformer, bad deflection coil, etc. etc. etc.

Chris

Fixing it would be hard to find a LOPT that works, my Trent's LOPT works but Steven can't figure out where the -20 volts is coming from, he says it could be a transformer but it's not linked to that he says, so he's gonna solder these caps in and see if it comes up on a full raster if not he's gonna give it back to me and I'll get you to try and fix it

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"I'd rather have a CRT than nothing" - me
"people just throw working CRTs out, it is NOT FUNNY!" -me

That's what I mean Nathan. If some unobtanium part like the flyback or CRT goes, then you may find that the set's nothing more than a display piece.

If your mate Steve can't locate/trace the fault, I doubt I'll be able too. He would have far more experience and knowledge than me.

Chris

Even if you replace all the critical caps and resistors, and the tube and the wound components are still OK, there's the task of adjusting the set to get it working properly. Some of that is fairly easy with common-or-garden test equipment, but there are thing like vision IF adjustment which are "factory only".

Old TV's are always a bit of a gamble. Most times the important bits still work and it's just a matter of replacing faulty resistors, capacitors and a valve or two. The older the set the more parts that will need to be replaced before it will work. Generally late 60's sets are fairly good and don't require much work due to the better quality components used.

As TV's contain well over one hundred individual parts it is not wise to replace everything in the hope that it will work. In many cases the set will be even worse as you have built a fault (or several) into the set by making simple errors.

"My Trent's LOPT works but Steven can't figure out where the -20 volts is coming from"

It may be time for Steven to start posting on these forums and asking for advice! I can think of one part of the circuit that may produce this voltage and if Steven is not sure how it is being produced then he needs to ask someone who does.