Hi everyone,
maybe you can help with circuit diagrams for 32v Breville radios?
Models 742 and 120.
Also looking to find someone who has rebuilt the vibrator power supplies for either of these or any 32 volt radio?
ps, the recent comments on speaker cone repair were helpfull to the point where I have some hopes of getting sounds out of a damaged one I have.
Thanks Michael.

What specifically with the 32 Volt vibrator supply? These, other than the voltage, are little different than the ones in car radio's, my VCT valve tester & a coil tester.

G'day Michael,

I will send these circuits to your inbox shortly.

Cheers, Graham...

Hi Graham,
received those circuits....thanks very much for those.
Pleasant surprise at your swift reply!

Hello Marcc,
it may seem basic to you, but to some one like myself with
no electronics background its a little daunting to take the
70 yr old unit apart in such a manner as so that I can repair
it and make it safe for future use. Using some common sense I figure I need to replace all the rubber grommets that the unit is mounted on...old ones are either powder or goo. Unsoldering the cable b/w the unit and the radio and
carefully marking the cable locations I was struck by the number of earths. The cable itself has metal seathing under the b&w cotton cover...this shield as well as one
of the wires are earthed to the frame that the transformer and vibrator are mounted on. Can I use a black and white jug cord? shielding must be for a reason?
Lid of unit is double earthed to its metal box.
I assume there must be 100% insulation b/w the internals and the outer metal box? If I send you some pictures you may wish to comment. ?? Prefer not to have an "ebay" radio collection...shiney diff coloured cases with nothing working. Sorry I must figure out how to put pics on view.

The main reason for all of the earths is to kill the radiation from the vibrator supply. A lot of switchmode power supplies & compact flouro's are just as bad.

The only high voltage generated is the perhaps 250V DC HT for the valves Whilst it bites it is a bit less dangerous than mains, but still to be given healty respect.

Basically the answer I what phishing for: It helps to ascertain the level at which I aim, if I reply.

A lot of those vibrators had formaldehyde foam within them. That also deteriorates and the vibrator unit may need dismanteling.

The main criterea for the wire is its ability to withstand the voltage & current and possibly flexing.

If there is rubber coated wire, it can be replaced by a modern equivalent. One would have to know what the wire is carrying before making judjment on its suitability. Sheilding would need to be replaced, if removed.

Hi Marcc,
thanks for your reply.
The foam around the vibrator is in the actual alloy can?
The wire is 3 core rubber coated with heavy shielding then covered in b/w patterened cotton.
Is there a way of reducing the radiation but still keeping
the function electro/mechanical (original ) and not going the solid state route?
I can see that pictures would make this easier.
If you are willing I could take a few pictures over the w/end and if I had your email I could send them direct.
(my email is listed) thanks Marcc.

There is often a foam jacket ( pipe lagging) on the outside as well as the inside.

The old Formaldehyde stuff has a profound habit of turning to a powder. If it does not end up in the points, it ends up allowing the actual electro-mechanical unit to trash around inside & it can short.

One would tend not to put the cart before the horse, "prove" the vibrator and not replace it unless it has failed.

There is every likely hood that you can solder the old onto the new and carefully slide the outer onto the new, if its what I think it is?.

I did manage to score a roll of 3 core flex that is only 1/4" diameter. In many cases more adaptable than 8mm for Radio.

I will check your profile. Members may well be intersted in photo's. Photo's can tell you a lot.

Marc

Check of the stocks reveals that the only 32V radio that is mine is an A12, which makes it an Operatic.

This I would say is chassis only, Vibrator section looks intact (24V Vibrator says circuit). 160V out Not one that I consider repairable.

Marc