Advice needed regarding soldering stations.
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Location: Penrith, NSW
Member since 7 April 2012
Member #: 1128
Postcount: 385
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Hi Folks.
I want to buy a soldering station for my son, to kindle his interest in electronics.
I started out as a child using Birko Irons suitable for soldering the end plates of guttering.
For many years, I used Weller irons with the number 7 temperature tip.
My last two soldering stations have been the Dick Smith T-2200 station. The early version was relay switched. The second, and current one does not have a relay, and since it has not given any trouble, I have not opened it.
I am in the market for a suitable soldering station, but am confused by all the talk of Lead Free Soldering in the advertisements.
I do not wish to waste money. The newer solders are "sh** to work with". I shall continue to buy and use 60/40 solder, until a realistic alternative is produced.
Could the "collective font of knowledge," of our members, guide me to path of the right soldering station to purchase.
Many thanks.
Wayne.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6761
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I also hate lead-free solder and won't use it.
I have a range of irons, including a Birko 100 watt which I've owned since I was a schoolboy.
Back then I also used a Mini Scope for some years. I still have a "maxi" Scope (and Scope parts are still available today). That 'maxi' Scope and my Birko are my "burners" for when I need some serious heat.
I have a Hakko 700C soldering/desoldering station that I got for a few dollars in a 'pot luck' box at an HRSA auction for $20. Bargain!
I also have an old Dick Smith temperature-controlled iron that I use for quick jobs that need medium heat and a sizeable tip (that was also in the pot luck box).
My Weller W-TCP Soldering Station (TCP-1 iron and PU1A transformer) stays on the garage bench at home. The rest are in my workshop.
My go-to iron these days for fine work is the Goot RX-802AS. It's expensive but it's very well made and heats up/cools down in a few seconds to the set temperature. I buy tips, etc, direct from Japan.
http://www.goot.jp/en/handakote/rx-802as/
Not sure what I'd recommend for a beginner these days, except to say I'd aim to buy something that will last and can be used by Dad later on if interest wanes.
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Administrator
Location: Naremburn, NSW
Member since 15 November 2005
Member #: 1
Postcount: 7395
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Lead free solder is indeed crap. When I do repairs to DECT phones at work I 'contaminate' the joints I am working on with proper solder so they are easier to work with. Lead free solder hardens far too quickly and looks like a dry joint no matter how still one holds the leads.
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A valve a day keeps the transistor away...
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2476
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What he said! That's exactly what we do for any prototype, rework or repairs. We leave the lead free for the robots! Our contract assembler uses vapour deposition reflow soldering - requires great care in setup but generally gives good results and doesn't cook the parts.
We have a couple of Hakko 936 stations that are variable temp and heat in about 10 secs from cold. They have been in use for at least 10 years. And a Tenma hot air station for SMD reworks.
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Member since 27 February 2010
Member #: 630
Postcount: 398
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I have owned and used all the ones listed above. My Home DSE T-2200 Was on its last legs and couldn't source new tips so baught a new Iron.
I ended up with a Hakko FX888D, I use a few different Hakkos at work and seen reasonable for most things.
You can get about 20 different tips for them if you need.
https://www.mektronics.com.au/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html
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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to
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