Photo uploaded to Post 28.

Nice job! Love the period resistors, too.

The resistors are Soanar, and they're a bit bigger than they need to be, but I buy them because they're very easy to read and check. The modern blue bodied metal resistors are tiny and hard to decode; the blue base shifts the colours of the bands, making red, orange and brown look murkily similar.

The resistors are Soanar

Good to know. I still have some like that somewhere from many moons ago (probably drifted by now). Agree entirely about the blue-bodied metals.

https://www.soanar.com/Store/Category/Components%20%20%20Switches/Resistors.aspx

It seems that Soanar doesn't sell 0.5 W carbon film resistors, which is a pity because that size is ideal for restoring 70s transistor equipment.

Yes, strange that they jump straight from 0.25 to 1 watt.

Those Soanar resistors are carbon film, like the Philips ones.

Carbon and metal film resistors do not drift. They go open circuit under stress and this is usually (but not always) obvious.

When I'm restoring a chassis I normally would not even bother to test a film resistor, that is how reliable they are.

Except where one has been used inappropriately in a circuit with high pulse or steady state voltages (i.e. 500v or more), such as off the anode of a vertical output stage or around the B+Boost or stabiliser circuits. They don't like that kind of service. If the original was a 68k 1w, say, and I needed to replace it with a film resistor, I would use two 33k 1w film resistors in series to spread the peak voltage.

OK, I've got the whole chassis back together, but it's not quite right, so I'll start a thread in the Tech section.

Everything is now working properly.

Hi Sue, how about in special projects and with lots of pix and text about how you did it?
We are a dying breed of people that actually do stuff instead of talking about it!
I don't care if its a small amplifier or a large radio, its how you solve problems that gets me in.
Cheers, Fred.

A good idea, but it's a bit late for a detailed description of this job because it's gone back to its owner. The only photos I have are general shots of the chassis taken after the repair, taken because there's no pictures of the inside of this player online. The worst problem was determining what was missing without reference pictures, and tracing all the loose wires and matching them to the circuit diagram. Really tedious!