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 Kriesler 31-4 circuit required
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 9:40:13 PM on 25 February 2010.
2MuchJunk's Gravatar
 Location: Lithgow, NSW
 Member since 23 February 2010
 Member #: 628
 Postcount: 21

Hi
I'm new here and am hoping someone may be able to help me with a circuit diagram (schematic) for a 1946 -6 volt Kriesler 31-4.
This set is in very good working condition, but for peace of mind I was contemplating replacing the paper capacitors, some which would highly likely be leaky, I'm yet to test them. Some of the values are no longer visible on the capacitors.

I have seen mention in the Silicon Chip magazine that it's not uncommon for a restorer to remove the guts of the paper capacitors and place the replacement ceramic cap within the original casing for authenticity.
Has anyone undertaken this task, and if so, any advice or recommendations on the procedure?
Thanks!


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 4:45:10 PM on 28 February 2010.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5251

It depends on how pedantic one wants to be. The only time I have re-stuffed caps is to keep a 1929 Lyric looking a bit more original.

If you don't need the hassle, buy the yellow 630VDC axials and use them. Depending on the construction (try one) one can hang the cap, like a bat, in an oven (with drip tray under them) and hold them at the melting point of the wax for around 15min to allow the heat to penetrate. Remembering that it will be "Hot" and impervious gloves will be needed (Hot wax will go through "Riggers" gloves). You can usually push the contents out with an apple corer.

Do not cover the new ones with bog such as silicone as it can be conductive, and there is also the heat conduction issue.

Paper caps are more likely to be leaky, than unlikely. Also replace all of the electrolytics.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 7:48:56 PM on 28 February 2010.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7300

I've always been reluctant to place new condensers (capacitors) inside the wrappings of old ones whereas some collectors like to do it every time, as Marcc mentioned, for appearance and these same collectors more or less insist on it being the only way.

I don't disagree with the task as such but see it as a waste of time due to the fact that none of the radios in my collection are ever likely to have their innards on display. One exception I would make is for condensers mounted on top of the chassis. In this case I would leave the condenser in situ and simply leave it disconnected. It won't do any harm to the receiver and will contribute towards the look and feel created by the manufacturer.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 9:05:27 PM on 28 February 2010.
2MuchJunk's Gravatar
 Location: Lithgow, NSW
 Member since 23 February 2010
 Member #: 628
 Postcount: 21

Thanks for the replies.
So far, the radio works fine, I've had it for many years, and lived with the persons when I was a child, who originally purchased it new , so I've known the set for 38+ years.
I'm familiar with instances of top mounted caps being disconnected, and new caps located under the chassis, leaving the old cap in situ, but disconnected.


 
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