Good evening all,

I've recently obtained this lovely Kriesler console unit, and I'm hoping someone will be able to assist with confirming its identification.

Valve lineup -
ECH35, 6U7G, 6SQ7GT, 6V6GT, 6X5GT

6U7G is what is written on the valve diagram, however the actual valve in place is almost impossible to read the markings on; the other 4 are all confirmed as in the right spot.

My initial research is making me think it's an 11-9D; but I can't be certain. AORSM details the 11-9 as having a 6B6G, and RadioMuseum is stating that the 6SQ7 was a substitute in the "D" model.
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/Kriesler_11_9d.html

The timber casing has a "182" embossed behind the back panel, and the back panel has a matching "182" - not sure what his means, if any.

The Rola speaker is dated 14 November 1947, which would put it in line with the release year listed on RadioMuseum. The ARTS&P label, however, is light blue with no prefix, which according to research suggests 1955 onwards. Maybe this is a later build?

Overall it looks to be in original condition - I haven't yet taken the chassis out to inspect underneath, however I can see the original electro's still in place.
The previous owner had butchered on a power cord (twist and tape) and told me "it works and tunes in one or two stations" - which I'm hoping means that nothing has gone boom inside. I'm guessing the original wax paper caps are still in there.
The speaker has a small hole in the cone - when I get further into breaking down the unit, I'll get a better look at it. Hopefully nothing serios.

Timber work has the usual signs of age, but still in better nick than my 20 year old coffee table!

Here are some images that I snapped earlier-

In all its glory
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Timber work has marks
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Chassis
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Valve Lineup
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Is this a 6U7G?
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ARTS&P Label
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Speaker - Manufacturing Date & Tear
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The mysterious "182"
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Thanks all!
Mike

That Chassis looks very similar to the 11-7 mantel

You might be onto something Redxm - Just found this site here lookng up the 11-7
http://www.tuberadio.com/robinson/museum/Kriesler11-7/

The dial-glass and knob position look almost identical to the mantel radio.
It also links to a combined schematic for both the 11-7 and 11-9.

The SC278A it seems was made by RCA as a military item, and it looks the right shape inside, but I couldn't find any proof that it is the same as a 6U7G.

While the 6B6G and the 6SQ7GT do the same job (duo-diode triode), they are not pin-compatible, as the 6B6G has a top cap connection for the grid.

I can't imagine there would be any great difficulty getting this radio going, as long as all the transformers and coils are intact.

Thanks Robbbert,

I have taken another closer look at the valve in question and I can just make out a "G" just below where the tinting/shielding finishes on the envelope. Just above this there looks to be remnants of other writing, in the style of a standard valve marking.
From what I've read, the SC278A is printed on the base of many different RCA valves, so I think it might be a bit of a red-herring in relation to the identification of the actual tube.

I'll give the freezer/steam trick a go to see if I can pull a number off the valve. Given it looks like it's never been removed from the socket before, I'm guessing it might be the original unit.

I believe the radio should be relatively servicable, as mentioned, the previous owner decided to plug it in and give it a go (cringe) and he said he managed to pick up a station on it. I didn't let him demo that fact to me, however.

This weekend I'll trace out the actual circuit, and see if it marries up to the schematics for the 11-9 and/or 11-7 radios and go from there.

So looking through some more, it's definitely an 11-9D

Found a thead here - https://vintage-radio.com.au/home.asp?f=2&th=502 where someone looked at restoring the same thing.
The nice thing is that MonochromeTV was kind enough to share the service manual previously, which Brad is generously hosting. It's a million times clearer than the circuit in the AORSM.

Took the chassis out today, and I'm impressed that the former owner who decided to power it up didn't start a house fire. The paper caps are all cracked and shot, there is some insulation missing on the cables from the main choke (essentially B+)

I'll update this post with some more photos tomorrow.

The 6X5 rectifier was shot, producing about 125V at its cathodes from about 300V of AC at its plates. Swapped it out and now I'm getting the proper marked voltages as per the Service Manual, within about 5-10%.
The set has been recapped, realigned and is performing well. The speaker has has been nicely eaten by cockroaches, but I think it shouldn't be too difficult to repair.

A few interesting things about the manufacturing date. I noticed stamped on the inside of the cabined is a date in December 1947. Fits in with the speaker manufacturing date. But the one thing that surprises me is the output transformer of the speaker. It's dated August 1956. This matches up with the colour of the ATRS&P label. So maybe it was cobbled together a few years later, rather than around its original date.

The dial lamps globes work (on the workbench), but their holders are made from some rubbery substance which is hard as a rock. This has pulled the contacts out of position. It appears to be some gasket which forms a mating face with the cabinet glass front.

The speaker grille cloth has also faded considerably, and stretched somewhat. I'm still deciding whether to replace it or leave it as-is.

That does indeed sound good. Well done.

The fact it has an odd speaker transformer relates to the fact that I normally find about 2 in 8 have a good one. They seem to have an attrition rate close to that of grid resistors on beam Pentodes like 6V6 & Plate resistors on the det / Audio valve feeding them.

Providing the cone is not polling, "Micropore" will mould into the ripples of the cone. I normally use an Acrylic binder as it remains flexible. Beware as to how you use aqueous based binders. Solvent based is less likely to distort the cone.

I prefer not to use PVA based as it lacks flexibility. If its too rigid, it will tear a hole.

Thanks for the suggestion on the Micropore tape Marc. Didn't think of that, but it sounds like a decent fit given how light it is.
I'll give it a go.