Are there any downsides to using flux. I started using it on the weekend and it seems to be so much easier . I know there is some in the solder itself but the additional stuff seems to make a much better joint.

What sort of flux? I spend more time getting it and massive blobs of solder off.

Some flux is corrosive and by that I do not mean just things like Acid.

The stuff available from Jaycar. Not sure of what type.

Here is the description.



This solder paste has a mildy-activated agent to provide superior fluxing and reduce solder waste, it also helps you to produce high quality soldered joints. The active ingredients in DeoxIT® Rosin Soldering Flux are non-ionic and non-conductive, including when moisture is present. The rosin based paste is ideal for situations when post-soldering cleaning is not possible, and when the residue must be highly insulating.

• Non-flammable
• Non-corrosive
• Weight: 56g

Sounds OK to me.

Extra flux can be useful when working with old, oxidised joints (like the ones in old radios....)

Sounds like good safe stuff.
Probably handy as well to solder onto galvanised metal, as in an earth connection.
JJ

Probably handy as well to solder onto galvanised metal, as in an earth connection.

Soldered mains earth connections are now verboten but, yes, common ground connections to chassis can be a challenge so additional flux is a help.

Marcc's point is moot. The mark of the monkey is often a ton of solder and flux residue.

GTC
No, I did not intend to mean Mains earth connection!
As all readers here should know, should be a seperate bolt through the said chassis, with locking washers and locking nuts.
With a crimped connection to the mains wire, and not a soldered lug.
And also not a crimped automotive type lug either.
The cable properly restrained with a metal clip and exiting through a proper grommet, or modern two piece lock type.
I might also add that very rarely do I see all criteria as mentioned from supposed restored equipment, by both beginners as well as so called professionals. Just look at all the posted underchassis images on this forum alone.
Acknowledge some are pre restoration. And should have the mains cord cut off.
JJ

No, I did not intend to mean Mains earth connection!

Yes, and that's why I also alluded to common ground to chassis connections.

Good advice re not soldering Earth connections to chassis .....

but for clarification ..... the reason? ....... to avoid loss of the Earth connection if high current melts the solder and the Earth connection is lost

....??????

The downside here is keeping the connection between chassis and wire clean and looseness over time due to the metals 'relaxing'.

But what is problem re automotive lugs???

Personally, I would connect the cable to the chassis directly as per above recommendations ..... without adding the risk of another possible poor connection via a badly crimped lug.

the reason? ....... to avoid loss of the Earth connection if high current melts the solder and the Earth connection is lost

Yes.

But what is problem re automotive lugs???

High resistance joint if the female doesn't contact the male properly (i.e. loose fitting). Also, risk of loss of connection through mechanical vibration.

Lock washers and lock nuts do not come loose.
If they did your car engine for example would fall to bits.
Many years ago tests were done on crimping and as many can remember wire wrapping.
In fact there are some vintage radio and other equipment that uses wire wrapping methods.
The tests proved that crimped and wrapped connections displayed a least resistance joint.
Automotive crimps (the ones I have seen) , are far too thin walled and do not keep the pressure on the wire.
Proper Utilux connector, and the correct crimping tool is the standard.
Cup washer and washer which encases the wire and is then held under tension by a bolt, lock washer and nuts are I believe,
still accepted.
And of course the cable itself properly restrained to take the full weight of the equipment.
That is no plastics, cable ties or knots.
JJ

These earthing connectors used to be commonly found on the metal cases/cabinets of appliances such as washing machines. I can't for the life of me remember their name (Brad will probably know it).

Yep, all old school electricians should remember - a Ross Courtney.

These will be found in millions of meter boxes, and E-Frame switch boards for the active conductors as well as earths.

In lieu of a soldered joint they were often found bundled onto 1 inch x 3/16th machine screws too, sandwiched between two washers.

a Ross Courtney

Thanks!

https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/1/19/Ross_Courtney_and_Co_1921SC.jpg

Also thanks,
Have some in amongst my stuff, NOS.
Never knew what they were called.
A “Ross Courtney”
Good vintage stuff, and As said previously still acceptable as a mains earth connection device.
My dad built many power station switching equipment control boards with these.
Hence my stock.
JJ