Brad .. Thanks again

I would think that I will not take much stress to get this one working.

Looks fairly original & most of the problem, will be caps & associated with output. interesting little afternoon project.

Marc

Speaking of projects, I have started work on a new website to replace this one. It is a very big project as I have many things to add to it that I never got around to putting on this one. Because of the size of the project it is unlikely to be launched this year but towards the end of this year I may give some of the regulars here a sneak peek and a trial run with things like login and a few of the automated functions so I can get some feedback at the construction stage. The engine will run on ASP.NET (ASPX) instead of the current Classic ASP which means that the site will run much faster as the former is a compiled environment. I am sure the difference in speed will be very noticeable when the time comes to compare new and old. So over the next few months if it appears that I have jumped ship I will still be here but more attention will be paid to the development of the new Vintage Radio.

As for radio projects, I have only done one restoration this year, a walnut R30 Radiolette and that is also the only radio I've purchased too. I will most likely up-tempo in the restoration department again next year once the new site is running.

I reckon 2010 will be an exciting time for the vintage radio fraternity and for many different reasons.

Thanks Brad & Marcc, have looked at the cct's & they do seem different. But will have to look more closely to see by how much...This Chassis has a 0.01 600v Cap across the speaker socket & a tone control.
Have roughly drawn out the cct minus the resistor values as the colour code scheme seems a bit scary.
Anyway have managed to get some high voltage/current Polyproplyne Caps which look the part & will start to change out the old ones where applicable.
Also managed to find a working period output transformer that was driven by a 6V6GT valve - Offers 10k plate to plate into 15 ohms, may fair better than the previous attemp once I source a 15ohm speaker!!

Paul

I am not adverse to using an AutoCad drawing of the principal components and then playing join the dots.

That radio is a fairly standard arrangement. Do consider printing the circuit, white out & change the inconsistent bits, mark in what's there and its value.

If you are not sure of the resistor, decribe its banding or get a really clear tight shot of the inside of the pan, and show us which one it is.
The Tripod has been invented.

You can then scan the circuit. & post it. If you can make the mains safe, & you are confident? Remove the rectifier valve and get the voltages AC between the CT of the HT secondary and pins 4&6 of the 5Y3 1000V range minimum.

10K is fairly high for the transformer but it should work.

Marcc

Just a quick update to say diagram drawing has proven much more time consuming than imagined....!
Have plotted out valves & some components in a "geographic" layout, but identification of some parts is near impossible....one resistor has-at least I think it’s a resistor! Has no colour bands at all & is buried under other components -virtually impossible to see. Anyway will plod on with this when time becomes available again.
Marcc, - will post the voltages as mentioned in your last post soon..
Also now have a 15ohm speaker to suit afore mentioned transformer so once caps are replaced & some of the values of the carbon resistors are checked it will be time to test again.
Apparently Carbon resistors can track internally altering their value substantially

Paul

The most common thing for carbon resistors of that vintage, to do; Is go higher in value or get cooked.

If the funny little unidentifiable is squarish & brown, its probably a Silvered Mica capacitor. The light tan with wax all over them are normally the papers, but some are encapsulated in hard pitch or some primative plastic ( "Mud" capacitors). There are also on occasions, wire wound type resistors.

Some resistors were tubular, but brownish & had their ohms printed on them.

Marc

G'day Marcc, got active with the multimeter & the Rymola Chassis & measured 572 volts at pins 4&6 of the Rectifier socket. Also measured 282v & 285v across the centre tap.

Regards Paul

Thats's in the ball park of the most common voltages.

I would expect 250V DC, or more between pins 2 or 8 and the CT with the 5Y3 in.

I would compare what you have with the 5DMC circuit, it may well be the correct one?

I am actually working on a set "blind" at the moment. It has been got at but at least most of the factory paint is still on the terminations. It's stamped CL 815 and apparently is a console (I only got the faulty bit)

I would say Circa 1939 - 40 as it has an 80 where I would expect 5Y3 and side adjusing IF cans that were not overly common.

Marc

Don't know if this is any help but I looked through a Radio diagram & Int frequency index book for the AORSM that I bought thinking it actually had diagrams in it !!.
The only listing in the entire book of a CL model or chassis number from 1936-48 is an ASTOR 1940 Dual Wave Console 5 valve...not sure if they count rect....with an IF of 455. See AORSM 1941 page 43.
All other makes & models from Aegis to Zenith steer clear of CL & 815 in models & Chassis numbers.

Also have narrowed down the Rymola console cct diagram to either a 5DC or 5BM...which should be in the AORSM published in 48 or 49.......the radio was only made in 48.

Cheers Paul

Oops forgot to add Vol 4 of Paperback edition.....just finding access to it would be a challenge I guess...

Catcha

Oops forgot to add Vol 4 of Paperback edition.....just finding access to it would be a challenge I guess...

Catcha

Had a servicing guy retire here a few years back. He had a full set of AORSM's plus other stuff.

He threw them out........ I could have choked him.

I will have a look at that circuit. Apart from a few mechanical problems and the 6U7 having a crack in the envelope. I think I have this one under control. I may actually get around to firing it up in the next few days (other jobs interfere).

That area of Models is about where I think you should be.

Marc

Guys - Just a question - did this issue of the HOT 6V6 get sorted ..I tell you a strange thing that happened on a EIL table radio here I must of done this myself ( I cant blame the kids of wife for this one ) ..BUT , I turned on much loved little radio ..only to hear a small short amount of background audio hiss , then for it to fade to nothing . HUH ? I said to myself - my fav radio is on the blink ! ..Hmm ..so I took a look into it , and found the 6V6 GLOWING RED HOT ..so it was a power down immediately . Then check a few components underneath , and then repowered . Same result - this time before the RED hot tube was evedent , the 6V6 even arced over with a whitish glow !!! - So it was back to the old trick of tube swap out from another trusted chassis . Hmm - same result ..warmup ..small hiss , then faded off to a dead box . Now when I started to study the wiring in detail , I was glancing at the AC supply for the rectifier ..and noticed that I was looking at the very same base that the 6V6 was in ...( WHAT THE !! ) .....how / why /// it must of been me - and some time back too ...what a silly mistake . I pulled the 6v6 and promptly placed it where it belonged ( it didnt make a great rectifier I soon found out ) ..then placed the rectifier which was a shocking audio amp tube ...and placed it where it liked to be . Long story short - Music ! So I dont know , but just check that the 6V6 is infact in the right slot ..as both of my tubes looked at a glance to be in the right holes ..but OOOOH NO ..they had been swapped out for a check at some time , and returned to the set in the wrong positions . Stupid I know , but I bet I'm not the only one whos done this .......and great thing is ..no tubes were hurt in the making of this story .....

Hmmmmm. Lucky that did not do some real flashover damage to the 6V6 fortunately the heaters are on a diferent pin to the filaments of 5Y3.

Good idea to get the paint marker out of make up a new card with the layout on it ..... which many of them had. Put it down the RF end its cooler.

Marc

Marker out of make up ...........or, ... not of