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 Ferrite tuning rods
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 12:58:13 PM on 12 July 2009.
Peterbrim's Gravatar
 Location: Brisbane, QLD
 Member since 12 July 2009
 Member #: 514
 Postcount: 6

I have a broken rod (not an unusual event I imagine). Replacements are available at Jaycar in Brisbane but not in the length I require. If I glue the two parts together will tuning be affected? Any suggestions as to what might be the most appropriate course of action in these circumstances? Cheers.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 2:18:57 PM on 12 July 2009.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7290

Do you mean the shaft coming through from the chassis? If so I think Jaycar still sell extension shafts in the 1/4 inch type.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 8:53:53 PM on 13 July 2009.
Peterbrim's Gravatar
 Location: Brisbane, QLD
 Member since 12 July 2009
 Member #: 514
 Postcount: 6

Thanks Brad. I don't think that we are on the same page. I was referring to the ferrite rod which is about (in this case) 200mm long. The rod is wound with several turns and I believe that they act as inductor in the tuning circuit (connects directly to the ganged tuning capacitor). I have glued the original parts together and there does not appear to be any detrimental effect. I hope I am explaining myself clearly as I am not particularly experienced with the terminology.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 6:07:12 AM on 14 July 2009.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7290

Ahhh, now I see. No worries. Jaycar does sell a few ferrite products (rods, cores and bobbins) but they are mainly for more modern equipment.

I think the best way to get a replacement is to scavenge one from another radio though if you are getting good performance from your repaired one it may be just as worthwhile to see how it goes in the long term.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 10:26:52 PM on 22 July 2009.
radiola49's Gravatar
 Location: Maryborough, VIC
 Member since 8 December 2007
 Member #: 204
 Postcount: 36

You can get good results by carefully gluing the broken rod together with say "5-min" Araldite or equivalent. Push the two parts together, and twist if necessary to seat the break as close as possible. Apply "Post office" Red rubber bands or similar to hold firm till it sets.
You can even do this within the coil former, but don't be too liberal with adhesive as you will most likely need to move the coil on the rod to find the optimum performance, then fix it with wax, silicone or a toothpick wedge.
I have also been told by a fanatical collector that this is NOT 100% as good as a fully intact ferrite rod. I personally think 90% is miles better than a non working broken rod.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 10:35:12 PM on 24 July 2009.
Peterbrim's Gravatar
 Location: Brisbane, QLD
 Member since 12 July 2009
 Member #: 514
 Postcount: 6

Thanks 49, I used araldite and results were good. 90% will do me fine.


 
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