Astor GQR Power Transformer,200-250 volts 50 cycle AC supply mains...
Power Trans.Primary Mains Taps:200-220v. and 221-250v....
Due to ME not checking ENOUGH when replacing resistors in unit, some solder shorted... before I realised, ..That smell....,and a damaged PowerTransformer . And I'm kicking myself .
Not ever having tackled something like this , is there modern replacements, that would just fit into its place,(am I dreaming?) or is it a case of just Ebaying for a good second hand replacement.
As it goes , just about everything has been replace in it,a modern equivalent wouldnt worry me ?
Any ideas, Thanks.

I doubt there are any off the shelf transformers that could replace any from a valve radio. Some collectors do rewind cooked ones but even this is a hard service to find. If you look in this site's Services Directory there may be someone there.

Don't be too hard on yourself over the error. As costly as it is, it has probably already made you a better serviceman.

Thanks Brad,

I always Check and Recheck and look, and I read all the time about Checking,!!

It's the first time I've stuffed up something so stupid .and like you say now its happened, it will make me better .Just damn it ! ive put so much work into it.!... Yea ill get over it. Eventually,.

One other thing... I've never bothered with it but some members install inline fuses on the secondaries of transformers in their receivers when restoring them and that would most likely have protected your transformer. Something for all of us to ponder on for the future.

There may be a trashed set here that has not had its ratted. There are several chasses & deceased estate bits dumped here to the point where a skip is looking better by the minute.

Marc

The Astor part no. (should be stamped on the transformer) for the GQR power transformer is PT807 for 50 Hz & PT809 for 40 Hz. It is very likely that other Astor models from that era use the same power transformer (I'll check later which models). That is why it is good to have a grave yard of wrecked chassis' to rat.

Another thing about this Astor is the potential death-trap with the output (speaker) transformer. The casing and laminations of the transformer is tied directly to the HT. The transformer casing is insulated from the chassis with a piece of fibreboard. I have mentioned this before in the Forums & it is very important that anyone, particulary inexperienced restorers, working on these sets must be made aware of this trap.

Failing all the above, this guy is in VIC:

http://www.transformerrewind.com.au/

Brad: Suggest you add this to the services directory.

They are always popping up on ebay, and Ive noticed the same Transformer in a number of models,
Thanks MonochromeTV, I read that in a post of yours a while back, I'm aware of the output (speaker) transformer, I'm very aware of the Dangers ,Im always Checking, Rechecking,and checking again to make sure,Before even thinking about, powering up,Thats why I'm kicking my self,But like Brad said its a Learning curve,
Thanks its a Important reminder ,about the Dangers.Install inline fuses on the secondaries of transformers, That is something to think about Thanks again.

Brad: Suggest you add this to the services directory.

Good news - already there.

Checked out the Astor files this morning.

All or most 4/5 valve Astor models using permag speakers & 5Y3GT rectifiers made between 1947 - 1954 used the same power transformer: Part No. PT807.

Armed with this info it shouldn't be too hard to locate a replacement.

Astor branded sets were not the only ones they did that to. Several of the PYE ones were similar. I do wonder at times why the did not use (but bigger) ISO types. Scant attention to safety, favouring cheap has to be an accusation.

Do note that on several sets like that B+ was a lot hotter & with 6V6, the screen is at less volts with the plate running at its maximum, and that is how it should be.

Marc

Hi fellas,
Well I'm back!
I haven't tinkered with my radios for ages but stumbled across a free Astor GQR radiogram and couldn't resist bringing it home!
It presumably doesn't work because the chassis was only just sitting inside the unit and a valve sitting loose in the cabinet.
Main transformer looks alright....speaker transformer looks a bit black but we'll see!
I have just bought the replacement caps to swap in and then try firing it up.
I don't know much about these at all and am relatively new to this valve radio game - only recapped three Krieslers and they are both working well still.
Had a few questions - any special tips/info on these sets?
I see someone mentions an issue about the speaker transformer....essentially what you are saying is that the transformer is live when the set is turned on so don't touch it......? Gee I remember touching the output transformers on my kriesler to check they weren't getting hot.....wow lucky I read this!
Lastly, the valve that was sitting loose in the cabinet is a 6aq5 and looks pretty black inside......you reckon this should be replaced before I bother firing it up?
Thanks!!

6AQ5's can look fairly grotty and still be OK.
Just monitor the plate and screen volts when firing up. And be ready to hit the off switch.
Better still make yourself a portable power outlet that has a light socket in the active(series) and use a 100W globe.
After a bit of experience you will find that the globe will hardly light, indicating that all is well.
A dead short on the mains Tx and the globe will light to near full brightness.
Half brightness probably indicates excessive HT current.
Play around with this setup with known good radios to get some feeling this great little tool can be.
In the early days of switch mode colour TVs power supplies, it was a must.
It certainly used to save your eyesight from the blinding flash from the mains fuses.
Or the splattered electros on the walls.
JJ

Hmm that is a good idea about the light in series I'd not have thought of that.
I'll probably just use my circuit breaker for now but I will make one of those.
Actually funny thing there there are no electros on this chassis! I was looking for them to replace but none only smaller paper caps!

Which makes me more think there is something wrong I won't be able to fix since if the electros are the most failure prone part and there are none then what is wrong?!

I don't think I have the knowledge to fix this one but thought i'd throw in the caps and if it works it works if not the output valve looks sus and could be damaged from rattling around in the cabinet on the drive home so may swap that too.
Actually the whole chassis was resting on the 6u7g the whole ride home in the car I dont know how it isn't broken from the bumps so there could be an endless list of issues with this chassis that will probably just cost too much to fix!

So I'm currently soldering in caps and I'm noticing the transformer has some wax residue and the paper is really hard....I'm now thinking its stuffed....is that the case when there's was residue? How do I test it without powering up? Thanks in advance...very upset all of a sudden!!!