Hi all. I have introduced myself in the appropriate section, and now need some initial guidance on what (not) to do.
The unit in question is a Radiogram Mullard MAS 1153. It is in reasonable condition overall, with some crazing in the varnish on the cabinet top but nothing else really bad in the finish. Speaker cone is good, frame has surface rust on the upper facing parts. Speaker front cloth (gold) has a hole so will need replacing. Power cord not useable, speaker wires good but wires to the volume control on the side will need replacing (yellow and red or orange). The Chassis is fairly good with a small patch of rust the size of a 20 cent piece but otherwise just dull.

Looking underneath all looks in great condition, nor burning, escaping wax, repairs are obvious. Turntable looks to be very good but very dusty and the felt is a little ordinary.

It was definitely running when last unplugged many years ago. It belongs to my Boss, who got it when his Dad passed away. It has a little engraved plate where it was presented to his Dad in 1952, so special significance.

So, taking first clear advice from you all, didn't hack a power cord on and see what happens (Yay, I hear you say!). Don't have a variac, have multimeter and scope. HV experience from years gone by.

I have these steps in mind:

1. Basic safety electrical checks
2. Check the transformer windings for resistance.
3. Replace the various wires as needed.
4. Replace some targeted capacitors (See below).
5. Remove rectifier valve
6. Check for shorts on the HV line
7. Power up, check valves are glowing (filament voltage) and leave to sit for a few hours to warm through.

From there it gets fuzzy. Power off, put the HV valve back in and gingerly power up?

I have the service data thankfully. Some info. below for others interest.

ECH35 Frequency converter - Plate 240 Screen 65 Osc. P. Volts 107
6SK7GT I.F. Amp - Plate 246 Screen 75
EBF35 Demod/AVC/1st Audio - Plate 19 Screen 22
EL33A Power Amp - Plate 230 Screen 246
6X5GT Rectifier Cathode to L12 C.T. 276 volts

There are LOADS of capacitors in there. What are the "must replace" caps?
What others should I check?
Any other advice?

Appreciate any and all feedback.

Oh, one more thing, I was looking at a replacement cord. This one on Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351564690363

Struck me as being desirable. The unit is currently floating and this one would allow me to earth it if it were appropriate.

Thoughts?

First step is to replace all of the capacitors except for the mica caps. Replace the power cord with a 3 core earthed one. Marcc gave good advice as to making sure the earth wire is at least twice as long as the rest. Then all you should need to do with any luck is to power it up via the variac minus the valves. Test the valves and if no problems it should be fine.

Yes, wax caps and electrolytics should be given the heave-ho. A shorted filter electro can burn out the power transformer and/or explode.

Micas have a good reputation for lasting and not being problematic, but they are not perfect.

That power cord is fine. The seller QCH is also a good source of high voltage axial capacitors.

Your proposed method looks okay. One thing: I never leave any of these old sets alone while they are powered up. I simply don't trust them to not start a fire (if you'll forgive the double negative).

Thanks Guys. Will gather the necessary parts and proceed with due caution.

That sort of cord is ok, but do remember that tying a knot in the cable, like in the past, in not on. I normally use a gland and that stops the cable from twisting & breaking free. You can install them pointy end inside. There are also other ways.

Make sure that you check the resistors as you go. These have a habit of going high; you cannot accurately check some "in circuit" but you can, if one end is free. However, if a resistor is high "in circuit" it will prove to be a dud. I normally work on 10% variance in a commercial fix.

I will leakage test Mica & Ceramic caps similarly for leakage only if out of circuit, but that needs an Insulation tester. If you do it this way your percentage chance of it running on the first attempt, increases substantially and can save a lot of time, stress & rework.

Ok. Ordered a 62 piece capacitor set, power cord and dial string from QCH. Very helpful chap.
Also have 2 x 22μF 450V radial electrolytics to slip inside the current cans.
The power cord has an external clamp which may or may not fit the new cord, but I will fit a grommet or gland as appropriate to make it safe and reliable. I will also have to replace all of the intra-chassis wires as they are severely perished rubber.
Thanks for all the help.

Not seeming to be mentioned. Electrolytic & Wax Paper capacitors are the "Must be replaced" ones.

Always take photos of a High standard before pulling it to bits.

Fun ones like the Grigsby-Grunnow I have on the bench are ones that can be a nightmare as many of the caps are grouped in cans like sardines & you have a lot of disconnected wires. One senior moment & you can be in strife.

Marc

OK, we have success on the chassis. Changed all the caps and wires, cleaned and checked whatever else I could. Put power on the heater circuit and got glow in all the right places. Bit the bullet and powered her on. We have AM and SW reception. Woo hoo! Finish re-stringing her tonight I hope.

The turntable is in surprisingly good condition not so the pickup I fear. It is a Philips turntable with a pickup that has two positions, two needles mounted on a small plastic carrier with one screw holding it onto the pickup, rotates through about 30 degrees to select one or other and has a female socket in the end with three connections.

It looks ok after I cleaned it up except that where each needle sits it looks like there should be something to transfer the movement back up to the (coil?). Not sure if I can take a close up of enough quality to show what I mean. It has a small red dot next to "M" and a larger green dot next to "N". It has something like AG 3015 stamped on the aluminium underneath.
Any help appreciated.

Cheers,
Glenn.

A bit more googling, AG 3010/15 were the cartridge and were a salt crystal of sorts that degrades with time. Replacement seems to be a 22 GP 235, 55 Pounds Sterling plus shipping... ouch. Any local sources?

From what I can find, that's a very European type of cartridge and it seems your wallet will take a hit for a replacement.

Give Gary an email with as much detail ( inc a picture) as possible and he might be able to suggest a suitable replacement.

The cartridge I wanted was no longer available but a generic one was available to suit including a fitting kit for very reasonable price.

Web site: http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/

Email: infothevoiceofmusic.com

Hope this helps

Thanks Clive. Gary was great. Parts on order.

Once the set is up & running, it is recommended that the IF transformers, then the oscillator & aerial coils, be adjusted to get them on frequency.

Changing parts in the RF section tends to throw things off & they do drift with the effluxion of time. If you have not got the required signal generator etc. Do not touch the IF's.

Marc

Gary was great. Parts on order.

Out of interest, what did he suggest?

He suggested a kit with all of the capacitors in it, which I ordered.

The unit now functions very well. AM and SW both work and after a new cartridge the record player works. Sadly, it doesn't play modern-ish records without skipping (plays a 10 inch 78 ok). If I disconnect the auto mechanism it plays fine. When it is connected, there is a noticeable side force when you move the arm towards the middle and there is no adjustment for it. Had 20 grams on the needle and no adjustment for that either, but a bracket I could bend.

I have a very bad admission here. The deck paint was very grubby and soapy water was not doing anything so I resorted to Methylated Spirit. It was doing great until I realised it was actually removing the paint... Very very bad move.

All the reading I have done the Philips decks are very poor and recommendation is to swap it out with a similar era different brand if you actually want to use it. Wouldn't know where to find one though.