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 Volume goes up before switching off ?
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 12:33:19 AM on 26 August 2015.
Tallar Carl's avatar
 Location: Latham, ACT
 Member since 21 February 2015
 Member #: 1705
 Postcount: 2155

Ok guys my skyraider increases in volume and then dies off when it is switched off. I know this is not right but what could it be . Maybe a capacitor ?. its just teething problems and the old girl has not been completed yet but soon will be. Oh and there is a slight squealing noise when the tone is adjusted but not continous.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 1:29:16 AM on 26 August 2015.
GTC's avatar
 GTC
 Location: Sydney, NSW
 Member since 28 January 2011
 Member #: 823
 Postcount: 6687

increases in volume and then dies off when it is switched off

I've heard of similar symptoms being associated with bad IF caps.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 2:42:07 AM on 26 August 2015.
Tallar Carl's avatar
 Location: Latham, ACT
 Member since 21 February 2015
 Member #: 1705
 Postcount: 2155

AH HAAA well its going back to be checked. Its been basically brought back from the dead anyway.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 9:52:48 AM on 26 August 2015.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

The volume going up as you switch off is not unusual, I have had sets that have been doing that for decades.

Tone is another matter. No circuit ..... no idea where it is connected. Might be ticklish?

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 6:40:31 PM on 26 August 2015.
Tallar Carl's avatar
 Location: Latham, ACT
 Member since 21 February 2015
 Member #: 1705
 Postcount: 2155

Yes and very hard to get a circuit diagram for this one.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 9:34:04 PM on 26 August 2015.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

I just find that annoying; Could not get one for an EMMCO Troubadour, nor one for an STC 59 Chassis both of which were to some degree hacked.

So I reverse engineered them from the chassis, drew a circuit & then sorted out the mess. Both have gone back to their owners working. It is just part of the game, that every so often you really have to put a lot of effort into getting some sets right, especially when some Monkey has been in there and added more faults, or destroyed something.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 7 · Written at 12:54:10 AM on 27 August 2015.
Tallar Carl's avatar
 Location: Latham, ACT
 Member since 21 February 2015
 Member #: 1705
 Postcount: 2155

This has only just happened . I just think a new component may not have been real good


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 8 · Written at 1:03:56 AM on 27 August 2015.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

Just because its new does not guarantee good. I have had an electrolytic fail on the first power up & others fail within months. I have a Kriesler that is coming back, showing signs of a B+ one going after 7 years. Its a daily driver so will have done a lot of hours.

Normally one burn tests the set for around 3 hours, when they can keep an eye on, or an ear listening to it. After 3 hours the probability of a fail drops dramatically.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 9 · Written at 1:30:58 PM on 28 August 2015.
Wa2ise's avatar
 Location: Oradell, US
 Member since 2 April 2010
 Member #: 643
 Postcount: 830

It might be a faulty volume control/ power switch. Maybe the ground connection on the volume control isn't making good contact with the circular carbon path the wiper wipes on inside the control. When you turn the volume all the way down to make the power switch turn off, the wiper may be pressing on the ground connection enough differently to break the ground connection. And it that happens, the audio level goes up, until the radio's B+ collapses. You might try squeezing the ground lug where it attaches to the carbon trace with needlenose pliers, if you can get access to it. Or a dab of conductive paint or epoxy on it where the break is (wait for it to dry before making the wiper go near it). Or just live with it, knowing that it won't burn anything out.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 10 · Written at 1:48:52 AM on 21 September 2015.
Art's Gravatar
 Art
 Location: Somewhere, USA
 Member since 22 October 2013
 Member #: 1437
 Postcount: 896

Does it have the switch on the volume control?
I would have guessed similar to Wa2ise, some bias being thrown out by one entire rail changing potential before the other.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 11 · Written at 9:28:35 AM on 21 September 2015.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

One point of total significance: Once supply is interrupted, you have still got heater emission, but with falling B+ the only power is that being drained from the filters and with the falling voltage comes instability, due to the valves operating outside their design parameters.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 12 · Written at 3:17:57 PM on 21 September 2015.
Tallar Carl's avatar
 Location: Latham, ACT
 Member since 21 February 2015
 Member #: 1705
 Postcount: 2155

The switch is on the volume control


 
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