Hi, Can anyone help with the problem of the sound still being heard even with the volume control turned down to minimum. The radio is a Healing roller dial model 1103 dual band. I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors and out of tolerance resistors and it has come to life. The problem has occurred on a few sets I have restored but not as bad as this set. Any ideas please.

Valve lineup 6AN7 , 6N8 , 6M5 , 5Y3

It's likely the carbon track inside the volume control has a crack right at the ground lug of the volume control. When the wiper is in this area, it may apply enough pressure to cause this crack to open up enough to lose the ground connection.

You can replace the volume control (if you can find one of the correct physical size and shaft style and so on), or pry off the cover to expose the C shaped carbon track and the wiper, and see if you can find the crack, and use some conductive paint to bridge the crack, and some glue on the backside of the carbon track to reduce the flexing.

Ok thanks for the suggestion. I will get the DMM out and check for the issue you raise. I have a spare 500K switch pot so can try it. I have had this issue before but not so bad. The sound can not be reduced to zero and even with a new volume pot. Though as you say if the wiper goes to earth there should be no output.

I cannot find a reference to a Healing model 1103, but a Tasma model 1103 is a dual wave roller dial model. Could your radio be this Tasma?
I don't have a circuit of this to see if it is a reflex circuit, as the inability to turn the volume to zero is a characteristic of this design. If the minimum volume is quite high and it is a reflex design, and the volume pot is OK, I would be looking around the IF stage.
Harold

Edited post:
I have just tracked down the Tasma circuit and the valve line up is quite different. Also, it is not a reflex circuit so my above comments do not apply.

Thanks you are right it is a Tasma. Gee I knew that! don't know where I got Healing from... PROBLEM SOLVED there was no earth on the pot, found when measuring with multimeter. Tasma have several variations on this model. It is the Tasma 1103 dual wave roller dial. Wow it has been a hard restoration. Replaced all the wiring as it was the dreaded rubber coated wire. Valves were all ok. The dial string is hard as it has two dial strings. One for the tuning capacitor and one for the dial pointer. The dial pointer string is a challenge yet to be completed. Thanks again for your inspiration and ideas.

You did that one a few weeks too late; I may have photo's but the one I did had broken string. That was exacerbated by the crap on the guide trammel's. I had to lift the dial assay as the speaker was cactus. It has a double drum and the inside one was easier with the dial off.

Admittedly I have restrung a lot and this is not the worst I have seen. I would say (I think) a National SW5 is near the top of unbelievable! I estimated probably half the day to dismantle the tuning shafts & gangs to get out the main one so as you could dismantle the end of it to get at the spring/s and tie downs (in a drum) and put it back together.... Crazy.

Naturally in such a swine of an assembly they did not list the string length. Not that many of them did anyway, as that would have made things easy.

Tasma tended to use Philips tubes and in this one did.

Thanks Marcc. The stringing on the Tasma is next to impossible. Its like key hole surgery trying to do the inner drum. To top it off I finally did it but had too much tension on the string and the anchor lug broke off. I think that was a old fault as there was solder on the base of it which I was concerned about. Seem that concern was well founded. The drum has not enough room to remove it easily as the power transformer is in the way. I hope there is another lug but I can not see it as the tuning capacitor blocks the view. I will try loosing the shaft and spinning the capacitor out of the way. The whole dial assembly is so fiddly I really don't want to dismantle it again. Damm it.

Re dial stringing in general, I sometimes think that there was an unofficial competition among radio designers to see who could come up with the most diabolical stringing scheme. Philips was a front runner in my experience.

Never had one this difficult before!!!!!

Remember I had the dial plate off.
Use long tweezers, or a knitting needle.
You have to have it all in the right position to hang the spring & Insulation tape is good for stopping the string from jumping out of the score.

I got mine right .... technique.... getting frustrated with it, will not be helpful. As I said not the worst one.

Hi all. just an update
Re soldered the tag on the tuning drum with great difficulty using silver solder to make it stronger. Then retied the dial string so it was not so tight. Then aligned the dial indicator with the stations. All good so polished the case and put a new cloth to cover the speaker grill. Then put it all back together and I'm listening to it now. Top performer really happy with it. Always wanted a roller dial....

Well done!

The satisfaction's in the listening and the looking.

Your so right. After doing a complete restoration and fault finding ( oscillator coil open cct) and then to get it to work, so good....