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 Dial stringing
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 9:02:31 PM on 1 July 2013.
Scraps's Gravatar
 Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
 Member since 10 March 2013
 Member #: 1312
 Postcount: 401

What a pain, I've only ever done half a dozen or so. There's no way this was the tradesman's job back in the day, it had to be the apprentice's punishment!

Any tips or should this only be attempted when the stars are aligned?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 9:49:21 PM on 1 July 2013.
GTC's avatar
 GTC
 Location: Sydney, NSW
 Member since 28 January 2011
 Member #: 823
 Postcount: 6761

Yep, it's been said that trying to re-string some sets can make a grown man cry.

I've got a book somewhere that contains diagrams of the most commonly used dial string arrangements.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 11:12:09 PM on 1 July 2013.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5389

Actually what set is it that is making you so highly strung?

Worst one I have ever seen is a National SW5 One has to dismantle the drum after you remove the entire tuning mechanism. To me that amounts to hours.

Sticky tape & "Blue tac" (colour is not realvant) used like "plasticine" feature in methods of holding the cordage to the relavant drum scores.

You do need some mechanical perception when working out the direction of the wind , should you have no diagram.

If it needs a new tension spring Industrial bearing suppliers often have them.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 11:26:22 AM on 2 July 2013.
Scraps's Gravatar
 Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
 Member since 10 March 2013
 Member #: 1312
 Postcount: 401

I've had diagrams for them all but still found them incredibly frustrating. The latest one, a relatively simple HMV 61-51, I wasn't even restringing. Just replacing the original cord which was removed for safe keeping whilst recapping. It doesn't help that the diagrams show the chassis right way up when it needs to be upside down to restring it! I actually held the diagram above my head whilst checking. Even a basic AWA500m had me cursing.
I'd hate to have worked in the dial cord section of one of the manufacturers. Mad as a hatter? More like mad as a dial stringer! Dial cords? Stupid invention!


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 11:35:50 AM on 2 July 2013.
Gandhn's Gravatar
 Location: Cameron Park, NSW
 Member since 5 November 2010
 Member #: 770
 Postcount: 409

I can only agree!
My most recent disaster was an Astor Mickey, using their anti-backlash gear and no dial drum, the cord being wrapped several times around the knob shaft. There was no dial cord present so I had to start from scratch.
I eventually got it working, to find that I had it working in reverse, knob turning to the right, pointer going left!
Harold


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 9:04:14 PM on 2 July 2013.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5389

Interesting: I have seviced several Nippers & HMV sets & never had major hassles with the ones needing work on dial cordage.

I draw sketches of the drum & I can easily work out on paper which way the trickier ones will go. Even if the drum is 90 degrees to the dial.

You cannot restring in most cases with a slack cord as that will always result (unless there is something to hold it) in the cord jumping out of the drum scores, or jumping off a pulley.

Do beware, the wooden pulleys do not like side stress. Coating them on the sides with Araldite turns them into hardwood.

Marc


 
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