Rusted Chassis
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Location: Bongaree, QLD
Member since 26 October 2018
Member #: 2308
Postcount: 95
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Good Evening All, I have a 1936 radio chassis which is very rusty, is there any type of rust remover suitable for this purpose. Bowler
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2527
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Rust removers are all very corrosive and most also attack aluminium. You really can't use them on a populated chassis
What I've done in such cases is to take lots of pictures and strip everything out of the chassis.
If you are lucky the sockets can be un-rivetted from the chassis and removed from the underside, along with all the wiring.
If it's a valuable (desirable) model, you can take it to an electroplater who will subject it to an acid bath and then zinc plate it. I did this with a couple of Airzone Radiostars.
Otherwise you can wire brush it and paint it using a rattle can.
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5474
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Photo may be helpful? If it is really bad and you have to strip the chassis, one can get seriously aggressive. If there are large rust pits, they need to be cleaned out as paint will not stop the corrosion.
Then you resort to Molasses or Phosphoric acid. Big holes / pits, can be dealt with using either automotive body filler or solder (lead wiping). Tractors fuel tank has been lead wiped, seriously effective.
Marc
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6803
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Then you resort to Molasses
Make that diluted molasses -- about 1:10 -- and gentle heat will quicken the process. (Be warned that it stinks, so don't do it under your neighbour's window.)
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Location: Tamworth, NSW
Member since 6 April 2012
Member #: 1126
Postcount: 467
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If you want a commercial solution, Fertan rust converter is great. Turns rust into ferric tannate
You can buy it at Autobarn.
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5474
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Amusing are those of ignorance who complain about the Fox holes left in the remaining metal after treatment. The reality check is that the Fox hole was corroded metal. If you do not get it out, you are wasting you time.
The chassis will look a whole lot better treated & sanded. If you use solder 50/50 is preferable. Acquired some of that somewhere in resin cored. Very handy a few days ago when I realised the radiators top tank's (real metal (1958) not plastic) had separated from the LH bracket. That did not require the PIB removal of the radiator.
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