I will send Brad a photo that I will use in an article. Interesting I have been looking for SW on this, part time for a couple of days. Tonight I got a better run at it. All had been sorted except the had it speaker. There are very few parts involved when only SW is stone dead.

I had to open up the 2nd IF can to sort out the fly lead, but ended up opening the "plug in" Aerial & Osc Cans as I found the fine wire coil on SW open. This was not the killer albeit it was never going to get SW. However, after sorting out the coils; I noticed that the switching in front of me looked wrong and it was.

Circled is a connection to the antenna Gang, that is dry jointed. The same wire is on the BC terminal: It should be on common which had no solder on it? Interesting that after placing the wire on switch banks common SW came to life. Wave change switch was also meant to have two 3/16" roller balls in the detent, one was missing: Sorted.

Marc

Photo uploaded.

Brad: Thanks

Someone may benefit? This looks factory, but is just as likely the Monkey.

Too lazy/pushed for time to go under the chassis to solder the broken connection?

The scary thing is that this is topside. The common is partially obscured and was awfully close to the chassis.

I ended up putting shrink tube bands on the cloth wire to kill the fraying and an additional sleeve to ensure the common and chassis never met. Note it on the terminal of the fly lead hanging LH side.

The stupid thing with that wire, is that it was not that much more difficult, to do it properly.

Incredible clarity. Wish I could take pictures like that.

That wire has a number of kinks in it which would seem (to me) to indicate an aftermarket modification. In other words, this wire is second-hand.

Also, that black capacitor looks like it may have been touched by the barrel of a soldering iron. Can't tell for sure though.

There is an art to taking clear photos in a close up situation. That was taken with a real camera (Nikon of course) however, the killer in all cases is hyperfocal distance aka depth in field. Most of the good film cameras had funny numbers & lines on the barrel of the lens, which was the guide to the depth of field, Viz the amount in focus either side of the middle.

That is why I continuously point out add nauseum, that auto focus is not your friend. Getting too close is also the enemy as the lens may not be able to focus nor get adequate depth in field. As in this case you need to get back a bit, then crop the photo to get what you need in focus. Where there is a manual focus option: Choose that. You then focus on something in the centre. In this case the switch as that is what was wanted. The more mechanical "Zenza Bronica" (120 Roll film) was one where you had a lever to stop down the Iris and check the depth in field.

The closer you get to an object the more hand held is a no no! The cameras normally have a 3/16" threaded socket, for tripod mounting: Use it. The Nikon does allow aperture & speed priorities. "Still life with daisies" does not require speed, just the correct f stop to give the depth. The digital camera's behave a little different than film ones. But some things just don't change. That was a flashlight unit photo, it too can be varied to suit the situation, not the inbuilt candle.

There are two Mica caps that size & both have had run ins with big soldering irons, They are as expected in spec for capacity. Failures of them are rare and at 500VDC, none tested were leaking.

That "Push back wire" is common to the whole set. Other than the plastic bit no longer swinging off the grid cap of the 6K7and is now on the floor. As above that wiring did get tidied up.