The ones listed in the Miniwatt Technical Data manual are:

12AC6, 12AD6, 12AE6, 12AE6A, 12AE7, 12AF6, 12AJ6, 12AL8, 12BL6, 12CN5, 12CX6, 12DK7, 12DL8, 12DS7, 12DU7, 12DV7, 12DV8, 12DW8, 12DY8, 12DZ6, 12EA6, 12EC8, 12EG6, 12EK6, 12EL6, 12EM6, 12F8, 12FK6, 12FM6, 12FR8, 12FX8, 12J8, 12K5, 12U7.

I have never seen any of these valves, so they are probably quite rare.

Photos uploaded to Post 11.

Hi Guys,

I feel the only way forward with this restoration, and rust, will be to strip all the components off the sub chassis ,then get the chassis

plated, then rebuild the whole thing again ......I hope this is not vanity.

I'll post a few pics as I proceed.

Cheers Rob


Hi BurntOutElectronics,

Did you have a look at the schematic that Harold posted, the valve lineup,

12BL6

12AD6

6DR8

6ET6

The 6DR8 is a 9 pin miniature RF amp and has Duo Diodes and the other 3 are 7 pin miniature

"Designing a Modern Car Radio Receiver" April 1959 Edition of Radio Television & Hobbies
may give you more insight in Hybrid Design in Car Radio Receivers

Hullo Brins re post #18, no, stripping the radio and re-plating the metalwork is not a vanity!

The fact that its just an old car radio means nothing.
It could be rare widget and the principle is the same.
Its a hobby repair and you fix it the way you want to fix it and bugger what anybody else thinks you should be doing.
I have repaired/restored lots of radios and stuff and do it to the level I was capable of, or wanted to, at the time.
If I am satisfied that's what is important.

Go for it mate, yep go back to the metal, prep the metal and put it back together as you see fit.
Looks like a great fascinating project.

Cheers, Fred.

Thankyou so much Fred, that is so encouraging........you are indeed a lovely man.