REPENT

and help me rebuild

.
Step up ye sinners

350V should be ok in that sort of set if its a heater rectifier. 525PV was the universal Ducon used in nearly everything where the working voltage did not exceed 250VDC.

Where you needed 525 Peak Volts was with filament rectifier valves like #80 /5Y3 which could produce voltages close to double the working volts prior to the heater tubes starting to conduct & drag it down.

I would prefer to see a proper circuit before speculating. I note a brush symbol & an earth symbol? A brush symbol would be used where the components are electrically floating above the chassis / metal case and say a cap goes from that floating system to the metal case. The earth symbol would represent then "B(-)".

Marcc

I can only respond to this> "I would prefer to see a proper circuit before speculating."

There is both my drawing and a factory type schematic for this in the thread. My drawing got altered and I'm sure it is very wrong.

The brush symbol I copied and assume is for the shield earth arrangement for the radio. There are now three symbols> the (-), the brush and the normal earth symbol.

I have a lot of test work to put up here, measurements from my new capacitor test meter. I have been reading a little bit about 'recapping' old radios. I do not want to destroy this radio. Hence I remain. Ordinarily I would try on my own -now.

The wiring that is altered needs to be re-set (1), then new components added (2). Originally this was straight forward. I am asking for expert help to retrieve this situation.

Thanks Marcc.

24/12/18

Hi people.

I have finally got around to working on my car radio again.

Im still needing help with the diagram, and a way of filling a parts list.

Plus proper practical help to prepare parts.

Hope to have some help from people on VR again.

The initial parts list was quite simple. Note the value of every capacitor listed as paper & buy a 630V one to replace it (someone on the forum will sell them to you) exception the padder which as mentioned, is normally KV. One does not waste time & money testing paper caps. That also applies to those marked as "Electrolytic" You replace the smaller voltage ones with the modern equivalent capacity ones, at a voltage not below that of the original.

One normally checks the resistors as they replace the dud wiring & paper caps as you cannot always predict which ones are going to be the duds. That is why as a fixer I have an inventory of them & caps. And again do beware of the two earth symbols, they mean different things.

If you mean that ring with an earth symbol on it circling a bunch of wires? That means the wires are run inside a braided metal sheath and its earthed

The resistors with the green with Yellow band (500K now 470K) & Green with orange band (50K now 47K) can have a high attrition rate, especially when on a 6V6.