Success!!!

What a journey.

So, It appears the original fault was -the earth wire had broken from the middle terminal of the pick up plug-. It was just a thin wire soldered into the shielding. Did not see it until a couple of days ago. I had to get the guts of it out to have a look.

What I did.
Changed the paper caps. Dropped a bit of solder on 6V4 which caused a short through R30 which cooked it.
Then I started fiddling with the input jacks and somehow bent a terminal and missed wired them.
Anyway, I left it and when I went back and looked at the diagram from the stylus back. (Which I should have done from the beginning)
Figured out the jacks are a switch as well, sorted the wiring and......
Yay.....
But I just noticed left speaker isn't on. Grrrr.
So I'll let it cool and have another look at those jacks.
Still pretty happy .
Thanks All for your help

Great that you found the problem, it was a long way from the first thought of a power transformer fault.

It highlights the thing mentioned here very often, that a logical step by step approach to fault finding is the way to go.

Harold

Harold yes. I can see my old electronics instructor tapping me on the head for such a back to front way around.
And it is completely opposite to the way I would/should have done it, check the easy stuff first!

However!
It's still not right. No sound from the left side and R30 gets hot again.
It looks like one of those input jacks (J2) is dodgy. I think it is cracked and is intermittently shorting.
It looks to me that J1 and J2 are not normal jacks because of the switching function.
Is there a common replacement for them?
Nearly there...........

It looks to me that J1 and J2 are not normal jacks because of the switching function.
Is there a common replacement for them?

Possibly, but without a photo how can we say for sure?

With stereo's it is often unwise to tamper with the working amp if there is one found faulty. The working one becomes the reference, even down to the point of current draw.

I am suspicious of the jacks as they would need to be carrying voltage & current. & its mainly speakers on solid state amps that do that.

If R30 is over heating and the voltage at the junction of R30 and R27 is low (as previously indicated), you have a power supply problem. I suggest you temporarily forget all the other problems and fix this first.

Your fault finding must follow logical steps or you run the risk of adding more problems.

See my post #44.

Harold

So,
I have somehow crossed the wires on the jacks when I resoldered them.

I have miss read the diagram.
Can someone explain the attached photos.
I read it as continuity between the main switch, through the jacks then to the joint of the R10/C13 and R11/C14.
So the diagram is showing the normal position of the jack before a plug is inserted?

The photos show the diagram and jack.
J1 has a plug in and J2 doesn't.
The diagram as I read corresponds as,
the top contact on the jack is the earth contact on the diagram.
the middle contact on the jack (the curved/spring) is the top contact and connected directly to the Gram/Radio switch.
Then the remaining contact to the RC circuit
I think....

Oh excuse the condition of the wires. I have to clean them up and most likely replace them.

SW 1 is shown in the Radio position. The Gram position is a rotation anti clockwise, connecting the top contact of J2 to the volume control R12B.
The diagram shows the normal position, with no plugs inserted. If a plug is in J1, it will open circuit the path from the pickup, so no sound will be heard. Do you get both L and R channels then when a record is played with the plug out?
Having said this, if you continue to chase this with R30 cooking, you are likely to cause more problems.
Another thought, is the balance control centred? If it is hard at one end or the other, it will kill that channel.
Harold

Photos uploaded to Post 67.

I am smelling a rat here. I would surmise that no photo's were taken of the switch to show where the wires were: Before they were put where they weren't.

This has one of those features where it switches off HT2 to kill the RF section when on Gram. Should HT2 be mis wired it has every likely hood of being wired to short.

It might be a good idea to de-wire the switch and get markers and mark the three sets of terminal Banks say Red, White & Blue in the order the sweeper blades pick them up.

Leaving wire fibrils free like the one on the top socket, is looking for trouble.