Gandhn is correct.

The dial is not fixed---it is 'modified'.

Hi Harold, BBTV, yep but modifying is the spice of life!
Cheers, Fred.

Indeed it is Fred, I must admit I have (and still do) carried out some extraordinary mods during my service life.

And I do look forward to seeing the results when (or if) Rogermark fits the dial indicator glass back onto the chassis.

If that is a rubber mounted gang and they have decomposed? That is liable to be most of the clearance problem.

Hi All, As far as I'm concerned, the dial drive issue is resolved. It may not be strictly in line with genuine restoration work but it works..!!
With regard to rotating the bracket, I looked at that but the mounting holes in the bracket are not in line with the spindle hole so rotating the bracket puts the bracket spindle hole out of alignment with the hole in the chassis.
I'm very close to applying some power to the chassis and have rewired the tuning indicator to work with a new 6E5C...on it's way from Stan.
Thanks again for all you advice and hopefully it's on to cabinet restoration
Roger

Hello everyone.
This is my latest issue with the Mullard 98 resto.
I've asked Brad to upload a couple of pictures of flaking on the dial glass printing. I've included 2 shots, one from the front as seen from looking at the radio and the reverse side of the dial screen. As you can see there is a lot of crazing in the printing and it appears that the ink or what ever they used has fallen out where the hole is .
What do I do..??
Just leave it.
Touch up with something...open to suggestions here. eg nail polish, humbrol modelling paint, household acrylic...???
Is there something I could lightly spray to stabilise the crazing..??
Hope someone has solved this issue and can advise.
Thanks for your support, Roger 3264.

Photos uploaded to Post 36.

It would not be too hard to mount another pulley, or roller under the cordage to force it up. Now I wonder if they used Dulux?

Its pretty obvious that the paint has shrunken and has to be translucent. What has to be established is what it is. I doubt acrylic, but if metho destroys it, it is.

To reduce the effect of the crazing its going to need to be white & there are hobby paints for glass. You may need to consult the manufacturers. I am thinking low velocity fine spraying is the only hope.

If you can organise edge lighting of the glass so that light is not actually shining through it ie with a shield to prevent light shining through the glass and to direct the light in through the edge of the glass, then the crazing may not be as obvious when sprayed over.

Fine mist coats are the go - if too heavy then the present paint might wrinkle.

Bits of the paint or ink are falling off even while you look at it. So I have to stabilise it pretty soon.
What would you use to spray it with..??
Clear estapol or hair spray perhaps.
I've been doing a bit of googling and came across free software to edit photographs of radio dials. It looks like an interesting new hobby activity and could be the way to sort out my crazing dial. Early days yet but a new challenge..!!
Meanwhile I will have to take a lot of photos and then work out how to separate the glass from the mounting hard ware. It seems to be stuck on with some black tarry stuff. Once I get the glass clear of attachments I can put it in my scanner and get an image.
Re the dial lighting...it uses a long thin round piece of glass or perspex 3 or 4 mm in diameter traveling perpendicular to the horizontal close to the back side of the dial. I've not seen it working yet but I suspect that the glass rod focuses light to produce a bright line of light moving back and forth along the scale.
Any more ideas on what would be the safest spray to use..??
Thanks for all your interest...I used to restore classic cars and radios are much the same...any part you touch is very old and fragile.
Roger

Rogermark FYI: Michael Ranaan in Chatswood makes dial reproductions based on what remains of original dials.

radiomike121 (at) gmail.com

I have had Michael do a dial for me, a transfer or decal. Michael can work from a colour scan; a scan would be a prudent precaution against disaster anyway.

I have used hairspray with great permanent results. Even 20 years later.
Art stores also sell a spray used for sealing pastel chalk artwork. Which might sound more professional.
JJ