That fitting is rated at mains voltage and has the driver on the LED module.

The downlight I fixed is 12 volt, with a current rating of 300mA. I only linked that photo for the purpose of displaying a similar LED layout because I cannot find an internal view of the actual downlight.

I think one of the biggest problems with LED lighting is the RFI they emit. A friend of mine had very bad TV reception and had an antenna installer pulling his hair out trying to resolve it. It turned out to be an LED light fitting emitting so much RFI it deafened the front end of the TV. It seems our standards for imported mains operated equipment has dropped dramatically. I wonder how much testing (if any) is done on imported mains operated gear.

It seems our standards for imported mains operated equipment has dropped dramatically.

Absolutely. These days the "regulator" doesn't get involved until there is a death, fire, or other serious event.

I wonder how much testing (if any) is done on imported mains operated gear.

Zip, zilch and nil.

The standards are indeed in place however as GTC said, little, if any, testing is done in Australia on anything that is imported. It's another case of government being too big when making laws and being too small when enforcing them. The only requirement is that the manufacturer state that their products comply with whatever relevant standards apply.

Take laptop power supplies, for example. Look at the label on the bottom of it and you'll see standards marks from just about every industrial country on it, including Australia's C-Tick and relevant state testing authority number (For New South Wales, it's the letter N followed by a few numerals). Using common sense, these marks do not truly indicate that a product meets the standards. It just indicates that the manufacturer says that the standards are being met.

Mind you, it also doesn't give any indication that a particular product is made to last. Take pedestal fans for instance. I've seen several brands of pedestal fans literally fall apart when they are toppled, exposing live parts, simply because the plastic housing for the motor is such dreadful quality.

I've seen several brands of pedestal fans literally fall apart

Every time there's a council clean-up in our area, can guarantee that el cheapo pedestal fans will be well represented among the junk.

Pedestal fans: if you want a good quality heap fan, go to the Vinnes or Sallies shops.
The older ones seem to be the best (plastic case of course).
I bought a big el-cheapo in 1980. Still going and to circulate air (conditioned or heated) it is used 12 hours a day when the weather is extreme.
Maintenance consists of removing the cage and cleaning the blades every year. No trouble yet! (Not even noisy!)
CFL's were a stop-gap. They weren't that more efficient than incandescent, especially the halogen-in-a globe type. And given their short life they really are not a better choice.
Also is the fact that most of them tale a while to get to usable brightness (especially in cold weather) they are useless as outside lights (for example, to light an outside staircase. Turn the light on and wait?
LEDS are the way to go. Vastly more light per watt, and in theory they should last forever.
There is another advantage that no one's mentioned: They dont burn out sockets. Even though I have stayed within the recommended incandescent buld wattage when replacing globes, most of the sockets in my 40 year old house show signs of heat damage.
This just doesn't happen with LED bulbs. Added to this is the problem of "handyman" types replacing 60 watt bulbs with 75 or greater despite the warnings on fittings.
Re Aldi LED bulbs, I have had two out of four fail. One started flashing at about 3 Hz and one just died. In both the LEDS are ok.

Here to here to buying decent fans at Vinnie's or Salvo's.

The base channels of cheap fans collapse when trodden on - one of these fans now tech screwed to a piece of treated pine and relegated to helping dry washing under the deck in wet weather.

I think I got a good deal when the neighbour was getting rid of rubbish - I scored an all-metal pedestal fan.

A few repairs were needed - all the screws holding the fan cage were loose, almost out, and the thing kept falling over, due to a loose knob in the base. Tightening these things gave me an excellent fan.

When I say metal, the base is metal, the cage is metal, the pole is metal, and the blades are metal. Should last forever.

Should last forever.

Yep, but check the earthing. I usually run a megger to earth on the motor windings of old gear, too.

Some of those pedestal and other cheap fans have plain bearings & when the oil runs out they seize. Only roller bearings last, the only issues with them is they are bad for sales as (provided yo can find someone these days with mechanical skills) the bearings are replaceable.

I have seen a couple of ceiling fans stop, just because the grease soap dried out. Dried out grease soap is a problem in any thing with age. Speedo in the 1958 ute made "chirpy" noises due to that & all that I did was dismantle clean, lubricate & put it back.

I also keep an eye on the Vintage Marelli "Breezo" ceiling fan in one shed (open cage cast iron) This runs 24/7 and has done so for decades (Its not running at full speed: Just enough to move air, & keep the resident Possum cool in Summer)). It has roller bearings. They can be cleaned & repacked.

It always pays, even on double insulated, to use the Megger to check that the metal has not gone to power. I will not use fully metal devices, without an RCD in the circuit.

I have on several occasions found grounds broken within the wire, two wire cables with three pin plug & socket and equipment with defective grounds.

I have seen some good gear thrown out due to the residue of carbon brushes over time making a circuit to earth and causing the RCD to continually trip. A clean around the brush holders would have saved the equipment.
In the days before RCD’s a fairly dangerous situation would evolve over time with metal cased motors.
JJ

I have a job for customer to convert garden lights to LED (they presently use 12v mini incandescents.) What voltage & milliamps are optimal for the individual LEDs in a household globe? I'm going to sacrifice one to obtain the LEDs for project.

I'd also like to know something about LED lights. I have a lamp with a 40watt incandescent bulb, so in other words, it doesn't light up the whole room, it's just enough to see without bumping into things.

What size of a LED lamp would perform the equivalent function?

Well, I've just replaced 4 x 75 watt halogens in the kitchen with 4 x 15w LED fittings.

Whoa! Too bright! I can now clearly see every speck of kitchen grime and so I've got to clean up more often!

Whoa! Too bright! I can now clearly see every speck of kitchen grime and so I've got to clean up more often!

One option is a dimmer...