Lol Carl, yes I'm lucky, although she is actually champing at the bit to go camping and fishing as work doesn't give me much in the way of time, being on call most weekends for RAA Roadside assistance... I have over 5 weeks of holidays up my sleeve, but no time to take them, because modern cars are just so ridiculously unreliable!

Hi JamieLee. Just a note of caution. All the valve filaments were overloaded before the 3V4 let go, so they may all have low or no emission even though they are still continuous. I've seen this before.

Stuart

Ohhhh Noooo I'm really in the poo with this one

All new valves, yet when I switch on all I get is soft white noise, no music or talking???

Obviously I've stuffed this poor little radio severely!

Crikey... Does anybody have any idea's as to what may possibly most likely have been destroyed by my error? I'm stumped...

Have you recapped. Checked for dry joints.

Just treat it like a repair that you have never seen before.
Do all the safety things, plug it into the mains.
Have you got audio? When either a signal is injected at the volume control. Or you put your finger on the grid of the first audio stage.
( Other hand behind back).
If you have audio stage operational inject IF signal into first IF amplifier.
If that's OK listen with a transistor radio for local oscillator working.
Along the way if non of these measures work check voltages at the stage in question.
Tell us what you find and it will be going in no time.
JJ

Jamie,

This is the perfect time to follow the logical fault finding path outlined in those books you've got.

Seriously.

Yes I have re-capped, but it worked fine until I put the A and B batteries the wrong way... But yes, it's a devil of a thing to pull apart, but I guess there is no alternative, I'll need to follow that logical approach and see it through to a positive result... Something obviously went crook with 90v going through the filaments, I used 600v caps, so I'll be checking resistors, painstakingly as it will be, new valves so obviously something in the componentry sensitive enough to cook copped it good, I'm guessing in the filament chain as the HT wouldn't suffer from a mere 7.5 volts, perhaps something in the HT chain normally on the safe side of a resistor may have got blasted by a filament shorting to cathode or similar? Well I guess the answer is in there somewhere!
Cheers.

Hi Jamie

Not all is lost. Check R13 (with the switch in off). It should be 1.1K then check in the following order followinf the filiment line shown on the diagram
R17 - 470
R18 - 820
R1 - 3.3M
If ok then check Voltage on C19B and then C19A, C19A should be lower,

If these all measure out then start looking at your signal path.

I just noticed another point. The connection of R19 and R20 should be roughly 1.3 volts. if you can disconnect the speaker from the transformer and meter it out.

Ok thank you for those instructions, it's always good to have a starting plan!
Cheers.