Photo uploaded to Post 12.

To be noted in respect of Fred's comment: In some Autodyne's aka Screen Grid Radios, where there was a separate exciter tube (oscillator) they did actually, as part of the alignment. Tell you to remove the exciter tube.

There are traps in aligning for the unwary. and that applies to TRF as well as Superheterodyne & FM

Marc

I always use a low value DC blocking cap when injecting the I.F. frequency.
I did try injecting directly into the antenna input but saw nothing at the detector even with the gen wound up to maximum.
As said it's been a very long time since I did an I.F. alignment so I'm re learning the process and I greatly appreciate all the advise given.
I'm enjoying restoring this radio very much now that I have the time to do it.😊

As noted on previous occasions: antenna input 5-12 micro volts and modulator grid (often the top cap on early Pentagrids) 50 micro volts.

I made up a grounded, metal attenuator box, so that it could couple to the frequency counter and signal generator and the audio used to synchronise the Oscilloscope. Generator output has no DC blocking. There are two stages of attenuation, all with capacitors.

In the case of sets like Midwest with amplified AGC I leave the oscilloscope measuring it coupled. It requires specific inputs to set the AGC.

One sneaky little trap I see frequently on the American forum, with superheterodynes: Is the dead oscillator.

One of the first things I doon a "repaired" radio is an IF Alignment. That tells me if the IF & audio are working properly. If not the CRO is a signal tracer. The trap that befalls here, is that a weak basically un-tuneable signal can as its a TRF feed sneak up the AGC rail to the detector, giving the false impression that the IF is actually working.

Anything injected, not in the range and frequency that the antenna coils are set on, is not going to have much of a chance of getting past them

Marcc

R.F and local oscillator alignment done.
Stations align nicely with the dial glass now.
Now to the cabinet.
I'll post some pics once I'm happy with it.

Just installed a Bluetooth module with a changeover switch from Bluetooth to radio on the rear of the chassis.
Powered it by half wave rectifying the heater supply and regulating it with a 7805 with suitable electrolytics as filters.
It draws so little that it has no effect on the heater supply.
It works very well and cost just a few dollars on Ebay.
It's probably sacrilege but it gives another source to play with.