Looking at the photo from the manual, the cord is connected correctly, and the counter-intuitive action of the pointer is correct.

It might not be the most intelligent design decision, but it's doing what it's supposed to do.

If you're going to perform a hack, be careful of unintended consequences.

Robbbert makes a good point------I have a '54 Philips made in the UK with the same arse-about dial set up.

If you hit the knob at the bottom with your fingers to tune, then the present arrangement makes sense.

A further thought is that there is a slot in the left hand side of the shaft bracket that engages the clutch...? arrangement on the shaft. If the bracket was turned through 180 degrees then the cord may possibly be made to go through that,enabling the change in knob direction.

If I can add to my last comment--------.

I just noticed the dial is written in wavelength, not frequency. Thus:

Long wave has 1200 metres printed on the left of the dial and 2000 on the right. And:

Medium wave has 200 metres printed on the left, 550 on the right.

So, by turning the "Wavelength Knob" clockwise we see the indicator going toward the higher frequencies (shorter wavelengths)
and by turning the knob anticlockwise we head for the lower frequencies (longer wavelengths)

Pretzel Logic ??

Is your radio made in the UK by any chance?

I find it difficult to imagine that Philips would design, or release, a set which when correctly strung, would drag, or rub the cordage on the bracket, unless its strung with the wrong stuff..

The parts in it should indicate if it was made in England, Netherlands, or here. Timber of pulleys is a dead giveaway.

It will only rub the bracket if it was hacked. Stringing the correct way will avoid that.

He said it would rub the bracket IF he tried to make it go the other way.

Precisely, if done correctly, lots of things work correctly. Unfortunately I have seen lots of things arrive here that have been monkeyed with, making things just that little bit more interesting & often too expensive or damaged to repair.

Good point about the wooden pulleys, my UK Philips employs them

Rogermark, do you have the display glass? This will be the key. If the higher frequency stations are on the left and lower frequencies on the right then the dial is tracking correctly. The position of the tuner gang plates will also indicate frequency shifting in the correct direction.

The very early radios were like that where they tracked by wavelength and not frequency. When the rotor vanes are fully open that is the highest frequency and shortest wavelength. The European sets tended to stay with metre bands.

Wooden pulleys do last better than many plastics, when made from the right timber: Some is brittle and goes that way in time. Hence the resin to make it into something resembling Mahogany. New dial pulleys like that are easily made; be they wood or plastic.

Hi All, I fixed the dial movement issue by drilling a hole in the bracket of the drive spindle such that the cord is no longer crossed over.
Check out the photos when Brad puts them up and also my newly built dim bulb system.
Thanks again for all your thoughts and support.
Roger.

Photos uploaded to Post 25.

The bracket holding the tuning knob shaft appears to have an alternative mounting position, slightly rotated.
If so, could the bracket be rotated to allow the original dial stringing without rubbing and maintaining the designed action of clockwise knob, pointer left and low frequency/long wavelength at the right hand end of the dial?
Harold

Dim bulb start up installation = TICK.!

Dial fix = TICK!

Problems solved, TICK!

Fred.

Photo uploaded to Post 27. I think what Harold means is that if you straighten the mounting bracket for the tuning dial, the string will not rub where indicated with the red arrow.

Brad, yes that is it exactly.

Fred, I think we might have to agree to disagree here. If the knob rotation is the reverse of what was designed, and it needed a hole drilled to work, I don't believe the dial is fixed.

Harold