Hi Guys,
I can identify all caps in my radio except the three electrolytics:

Image Link

any ideas there would be appreciated
A schematic is not going to happen if an Australian forum,
and the Radio Museum doesn't know about the radio model.

The "type' on the middle one is def 1015. same as the bottom one, but distinctly different colour.
I cleaned it up after the photo to be sure.
Type on the top one is 1048.

Their brand is DUCON (in capitals).

It looks like roaches ate information off the bottom one.
Any help appreciated.

The important numbers on the case are the capacitance value in microfarads eg 8μF, the working voltage in volts eg WV 500V, and the peak voltage eg PV 550V.

I can see PV ratings on two of your caps but not much else.

Caps in radios with an indirectly heated rectifier valve (eg 5Z4) may not show a PV. This is because the voltage in a directly a heated rectifier valve rises before the other indirectly heated valves can warm up and provide a load for the rectifier.

If you can work these ratings out, suitable replacements are available.

QUOTE: A schematic is not going to happen if an Australian forum,
and the Radio Museum doesn't know about the radio model.

Top 16μF 525v
Middle & bottom 8μF 525v

Pretty easy to find replacements.

ben

Your Musicmasters is most likely a model A5, or one its variants. Circuit diagrams are available. I'm sure someone here can help you out.

Art: I have posted my suggestions as to model in your other thread.

I have the associated schematics.

GTC,
Unfortunately, I can't find any way to pm you through this forum, or email.

I would really appreciate a schematic, that I could definitely work with.
Mine is:
now edited out!

I read it's a no no to post email addys here for privacy, etc.
This is a dedicated public email exactly for forum posting.

The forum's default setting is email address hidden. That's to thwart address harvesters.

However, if you wish, you can "unhide" your address via Control Panel

Meanwhile I will email you what I have ... which is the "A5 amended" and, if correct for your chassis, that would make the missing valve 6SQ7GT. Before proceeding to rely on it, please check carefully that the schematic matches what you see!

The forum's default setting is email address hidden. That's to thwart address harvesters.

More importantly, even when you choose to 'show' it, it is still only visible to those who are logged in.

That's much appreciated GTC,
and thanks also to others who replied

Does anyone here have one of these?

I would be happy to send the glass out to whomever
has one, even if their's isn't broken.

Because I don't have any cabinet,
I plan to break some rules that I wouldn't have otherwise,
and only work on the chassis,
and try to provide an input to the amp other than the radio.

Nice gesture, but if I were you, and I was going to restore the chassis, I'd hang onto that dial glass. You then have the option of building your own case or, if an case eventually becomes available, there's the chance that the dial glass will be missing or broken.

I would normally think that way, and be a real purist,
stuffing caps into old cases, etc,
but this might have been the right one for me to get this time.

I'm feeling uneasy as I'm discarding parts,
and don't want to keep this, but can't throw it away either.
It's not such a nice gesture ;)

I'll let you know when I do a nice gesture ;)

Offering useful radio stuff free is a nice gesture in my book!

Go ahead and restore it for the experience, if nothing else. No need to stuff original caps, etc.

Once she's making lovely sounds you might be motivated into making a simple timber cabinet for it.

I previously took down paper and electro cap values I could see,
potentiometer values, transformer outputs which are
conveniently labeled, four of the five valves, and that is all correct.

Much easier to read I haven't tried hard to relate the
schematic back to the radio, but the way the rotary switch
switches the SW or MW radios in or out of the circuit
looks right too.
It looks like a valve is a discriminator for whichever radio
is currently switched in for the amplifier.
Then a fancy thing where valves in amplification stages are
isolated from each other with transformers.

Just a question about the electrolytics...
I can replace all paper caps with green caps or such
fairly precisely, but the electrolytics are difficult to match.

16 MFD 525 PV x 1,
8 MFD 525 PV x 2.

This site here:
http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm
says it's fine to up the value of electrolytics in the power
supply, so I was going to use 10 & 20 MFD caps from here:

http://www.evatco.com.au/webcat1p12.htm#Electrolytic_Cap.

I can exceed the voltage value for the 20 MFD cap,
but the voltage value for the 10 MFD caps are 500V
as opposed to 525V.

Give that the voltage value on the original caps is 525 P.V.
(Peak Voltage),
would it be safe to assume the 500V caps will be ok?
Cheers, Brek.

http://www.justradios.com/cart.html.

Based in Canada, but really good to deal with. They stock 600v electros, among other things.

Nothing wrong with EVATCO, but they only seem to stock up to 500v

http://radiorevivalparts.com/ was another source of parts, but no longer.

You will most likely get away with 500v caps


ben