After a lot of mucking around, replacing caps, resistors, wires, ignoring it and finally doing something, my Kriesler 11-104 is working. (Almost)
I have great sound from the radio but nothing from the record.
It seems to have continuity from the new stylus through to the plug near the antenna.
But I am stumped now.
Any suggestions?
Cheers

I don't have the schematic atm, however check the radio/phono switch.

If you touch the terminals of the actual cartridge if its stereo the are two grounds and two that should cause hum. That will tell you if you have a wiring, or switch issue.

Then it comes down, to the wrong fitment of the stylus, miswired, or a dead, or the wrong cartridge.

Some times it pays to walk away, as the mind can get into a rut & not see its own mistakes.

Which are the two wires?
Can J1 and J2 play a part of it. They are the input plugs for the stereo, which disable the sound when inserted. I have the diagram. Are they shown in the open position? As in no plugs fitted which should mean straight through sound.
I have no sound when I touched the needle.
Thanks

Have you checked the radio/phono switch?

Turn up the volume and, as Marc said, touch the wires on the back of the cartridge. Either with your finger or a screwdriver the metal shank of which you are holding in your fingers.

Do you get any noise?

If you do, it's time for a new cartridge. Do you know where to get them?

If no noise, those 3.5mm normalising jacks on the input are known to get bad contacts. Check with your ohm-meter.

If they are OK, the input select switch is suspect. You can also check this with your ohm-meter.

OK, I have sound through the speakers with the volume up full, but there is a terrible hum now over the top of the sound.
Can anyone help with that?
Cheers

There are two possibilities, there is a ground loop as the chassis of the radio and the chassis of the turntable are not at the same potential. They should both be earthed and as it is a shielded transformer the chassis should be tied to Mains ground. Three wire cable.

That set is back biased via R25 there should be 7.5V across it chassis positive, centre tap negative.

C32 & C29 Do not go to chassis; They go negative to the centre tap. Make sure they are the correct polarity as hum is often caused by an overload.

If -7.5V is off by 20% or more. Higher voltage is an overload and lower, something is likely not working properly.

Polarity seems fine. R25 has 7.55 v across it but it is getting very hot and getting dark in the middle

I did replace C32 with a 47μF 500 v C29 hasn't been replaced

L3 was broken near the end but there was enough screw to screw it back in.

Electrolytic caps that are old, or have been abandoned for over two years can loose their "form" (polarity) and present as a short. If you have no way of leakage testing, It is usually pertinent to replace every one in it.

That does come across as that being a dud cap If its got hum and they're old. I will not use 450V. Too many failures & short lives.

I have reached the point where I test all of them before using them.

Thanks Marcc,
I will go ahead and replace c 29, 30 and 31.
Should they be replaced with larger caps?
Is the 47μF 500v adequate for C32?
Cheers

I have replaced the caps, but I am still getting the hum.
Any ideas?
Thanks

If you replace the first cap in the capacitor input filter with a bigger one than specified, that will cause an increase in voltage and subsequently current.

If the back bias resistor is burning and its wattage is as specified, that as always, indicative of an overload. When there is a rectifier that behaves like #80 /5Y3 there will be a surge voltage to near twice the running volts and that is capable of taking out underrated electrolytics by punching them through. I have had "new" electrolytics fail before specified voltage, so now test them before I use them. One does not know how long they have been in storage.

Check the circuit and their polarity (reverse wired); normally with back bias the first cap goes to the centre tap the second to ground but not always. If there is an electrolytic across the back bias resistor, CT (most negative point) to ground the chassis is positive.

Where there are diodes and #80 / 5Y3 or anything that behaves like them, feeding heater tubes and no voltage dividers. I prefer 600V for Plates at 250V DC. I normally place an analogue meter on "B" at start-up to monitor its voltage. The highest running voltage on rectifiers is at the cathode, or filament for #80. The #80 /5Y3 should not be run sideways.

Forgot: Never uprate the wattage of a back bias resistor. Better it fry than the transformer on overload. When it gets hot it also pays to check for heater cathode shorts. Including running the filament rectifier side ways in the wrong mechanical alignment.

Does the volume control reduce the hum (to zero?) when you turn it down?

If so, it's not the electros.

What about if you short the input wires at the cartridge to their associated gnd connection?
Does that eliminate the hum when you turn up the volume?

If so, you have a bad cartridge or associated connection.