Kriesler 3K00 Circuit Diagram and 3K06A
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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Hi
It's been a while since I have had time to devote to this wonderful hobby and visit the great website.
Does anyone have much knowledge of the 3K series of Kriesler 1939/1940 mantel radios.
Have what I believe is the 3K00 but it could be the 3K06A sitting in the case of the 3K00 ?
The circuit diagram on radiomuseum Is difficult to read and there are no marking on chassis as it has been painted.
Someone recently has written in pencil 1939, 3K00.
The valves I have on the chassis is 80( though it is not marked) EL 3NG , 6G8G and one missing.
I can not find a picture of the 3K00 chassis and mine looks very different than the photos of the 3K06A.
If anyone can provide me with a clear circuit diagram for the 3K00 and a photo of the Chasis that would be appreciated.
George
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6761
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My copy of the 3K00 schematic contains no component values.
As for that line-up, the closest I have is Kriesler 3K01 and 3K03 dual wave mantels from 1940: 80, 6K8G,EBF2G, EL3NG
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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Thanks for looking GTC, I do not think mine is dual wave. No selection switch that I can see.
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Location: Toongabbie, NSW
Member since 19 November 2015
Member #: 1828
Postcount: 1313
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Hi Captogo, I refurbished a Kriesler 3K15 in Special Projects some years ago.
There might be some similarities with the 3K00?
Fred.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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Hi Fred,
I hope you are well, I should have know you might have done a Special Projects on this, you seem to have cover quite few areas and I have found them most useful. I will check it out.
I have asked Brad to upload some photos of my Chassis as I cannot find any specific info to this model and the way the dual gang var cap is placed on the Chasis is different to any of the 3K series chassis photos I have found on the internet. I have done the ciritical test and IF coils, speaker and transformer look all to be Ok, so worth tring to get it going, someone has worked on it but it needs to be looked at closely once I get a correct informative circuit and track done the missing valve.
Cheers. George
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5389
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The pages in AORSM's overlap 3K01 & 3K03, 6K8; EBF2G; EL3NG and #80. Parts are on the bottom of the page for 4K12: 03 & 05 are on the next page and their parts on the first of the XP pages. 6K8 is a Triode Hexode, which is what one would expect in a SW set.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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The 3K01 and 3K03 are found in Wooden Cabinets and are according to Radiomuseum MW/SW and the 3K15 in Fred's Special Project is a 5 valve set. Amazing amount of work you did on that Fred. I am reasonable confident that the chassis I have is not any of the ones mentioned nor is it the 3K06A.
If it is in fact a 3K00 than the missing valve is the 6K8 but it is definitely just a broadcast band. Though I would like to confirm if I do have the 3K00 chassis.
Is the ECH 33 a direct plug in replacement to the 6K8?
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5389
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The metalised Philips valves ground pin one. I have found ECH35 in a 6J8 hole. Compare the pin outs. 6A8 and 6J8 will work in one anothers spot, but can cause band spread issues in many Astor sets like JJ.
Franks Electron Tube pages have data sheets.
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Administrator
Location: Naremburn, NSW
Member since 15 November 2005
Member #: 1
Postcount: 7395
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Photos uploaded to Post 5.
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A valve a day keeps the transistor away...
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5389
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I note resistors with metal caps on them, check all of them, the caps can loosen. Paint the ends of the cloth wire or use circuit board lacquer to stop the ends fraying.
Power wire is non compliant: It is not anchored. I would suggest an earthed cable and a gland with the pointy end inside the pan.
Do not run #80 or 5Y3 sideways.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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Thanks Marcc all very good points, yes I did note the power lead, and I always replace with 3 core and provide a solid anchor.
I had read this before regarding the 80 powers when it is sideways, but thought it might have been a myth?
Can you remind me why and what the possible consequences are.
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Location: Toongabbie, NSW
Member since 19 November 2015
Member #: 1828
Postcount: 1313
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Hi George, doing well health wise thanks (alive and standing upright)!
Gee that Kriesler is like "honey I shrunk the radio" compared to mine.
Could not be a simpler design.
But O dear...looks like a " Antique restoration expert" person has been there, sprayed the working chassis with blue paint to make it all "fully restored".
How horrible, overspray every where to hide the rust on the top.
That set needs a ground up resto to stop the rusting and getting rid of the crappy blue paint.
It is just revolting the way it is and will never look right.
Its a wonder the expert did not spray the wooden cabinet blue as well to fully restore that!
Looks like a sweet project to me.
Fred.
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 22 May 2017
Member #: 2114
Postcount: 120
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Hi Fred, Never can understand why someone would just spray it like that. In fact it is why I bought it as I was considering doing a complete overhaul, due to the simplicity give me some experience and confidence in doing a complete strip down,if it goes pear shape it is not an expensive radio, picked it up cheap. Do love the cabinet shape of this, It is actually Bakelite, the photo I sent Brad was in poor lighting.
Once I have removed all components how do you suggest I remove the blue paint and then resurface?
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Location: Werribee South, VIC
Member since 30 September 2016
Member #: 1981
Postcount: 485
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They even painted over the dial lamp. XXXXwits !
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2476
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The way I did some basket-case Airzone Radiostars some years back was:
1. Take plenty of pics (done)
2. Strip chassis of all parts
3. Get it bead blasted and zinc plated. The original chassis finish of most Krieslers of the period was yellow passivate, ask your electroplater if he can do.
4. Put it back together.
5. Make replica chassis and ARTS&P labels
6. Looks like new.
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