I have a few cabinets ( bakelite) that have damage and really can't be restored to original.
I have a brown AWA 500 M which is fairly common and a green Astor Mickey Bread loaf .
The AWA I want done in red and the Astor in a darker green. I have a friend that does this properly and I give them spare parts ( they ask for nothing but I never accept that. ) .
What are your thoughts on this? I would never try to resell them as rare models which others have attempted.
It's just that I want my sets looking good.

Hey Carl, get out the rattle cans and go for it!
I personally dont care much about originality and you have seen the nifty colours I have painted some of my 'special projects' re-builds.
Sure, there is a problem with idiots trying to 'pass off' re-coloured sets as 'rare' low production runs and that ruins it for everybody.
Not sure what to do about that, it is 'buyer beware?'
A close inspection reveals my paint jobs anyway, so I am not worried about the future of them.
Actually I have seen some factory sets quoted as being spray jobs in the factory as stated in the technical details.
Why not, makes sense to have one colour body (white) out of the mould and then spray on the colour as shown in the brochure.

Spray away!

Fred.

There is an article on replica radios at the following link:-

https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.aspx?id=29

Personally, I see nothing wrong with restorations, even when a cabinet colour is one that was not on offer at the time of manufacture. The only problem I would have is when a seller lies about authenticity. At the end of the day, there are now very few radio chassis that would be 100% original, so it is unrealistic to expect the same of radio cabinets.

Any vintage radio that is still off the factory floor would definitely be a display piece only and certainly not fit for plugging into the mains, even if it was just fresh out of its box.

I have sent some progress photos to be added. Its really great when you can get networking with good people and provide parts just for the good of the hobby.

These will be back in my hands very soon . Looking forward to getting them together.

Photos uploaded to Post 4.

Carl, nice looking jobs.

One thing I did try and found very good, were the water base rattle can sprays.
After my experience with aerosols on that VTVM bezel I was a bit hesitant about spraying rattle can on bakelite/plastic cabinets.
Have sprayed both types of cabinet material with both water and normal base cans with no bad reactions so far.

I particularly like the fleck gloss finish, very nice!

Fred.

Fred if you read the article by David Bartlet in the January 2023 copy of radio waves you will see the type of Rattle Can paint he uses is not purchased at any hardware shop. It's a specialised automotive paint which seems to do the best job.
yes it's him or his wife Sky that is doing these for me.
I'm looking forward to getting these completed.

Hi Carl, that makes sense.
Some of my cabinets are sprayed with left over Auto paint from car projects.
Its sad but places that handle Auto paint and can fill rattle cans are disappearing.
Its a changing world.
I was a bit hesitant with Bunnings sourced products but gave them a shot and have those cabinets sitting on the shelf.
Time will tell if there is any lifting or reaction to the parent materials.
I don't do any car stuff any more so have no more need for Auto products.
That Astor Mickey will look great.
Fred.

Well this little set is all finished and I have been up to a few shenanigans. I have sent Brad photos of the finished items.

An observation with exterior house paints is that water based paints do not yellow, whereas oil based do. Not so important for an interior object like a valve radio, where resistance to deterioration due to heat may be more important.

Also, I varnished my south facing red hardwood front doorstep with an oil based marine varnish expecting it to be good for the application. It has certainly proved tough enough, but the red hardwood has faded underneath it even though it never sees direct sunlight being in porch.

I would be cautious with acrylic on early Bakelite. The later stuff is likely Catalin.

I get quite a few sets with ceiling paint on them, which needs nothing other than a fingernail to shift. Rather suggesting that is adhesion may not be that good or the formaldehyde destroys it?

Photos uploaded to Post 10.

I have painted "plastic" cabinets with all sorts of rattle can paint from Bunnings and Auto acrylic paint by spray gun.

The prep work is the same for a car.
Fill any big scars with bog, sand off.
Roughen surface with abrasive to provide a key, wash and clean.
Under coat and abrasive if a fine surface finish is required or to cover bog.
I stopped doing that early on however preferring a more flat or mottled finish.
Then final wash and clean and top coat to suit.
If gloss is required add a matching clear coat.

When replicating a "crackle" finish I use Rocker Box Crackle paint.
When replicating a stoved enamel "fish eye" finish I spayed gloss black and then spat silver overspay on it while wet.
That was not far off looking like a "Hammer tone" fish eye finish.

No paint has fallen off yet.

Hours of fun in the paint shop (backyard!)

Fred.