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 Television and Radio Cabinet Restoration part 3
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 10:58:42 AM on 15 July 2017.
Vintage Pete's avatar
 Location: Albury, NSW
 Member since 1 May 2016
 Member #: 1919
 Postcount: 2048

TELEVISION AND RADIO CABINET RESTORATION PART3

Hello all,
Well here we go with part 3 which is grain filling and leveling .

Previous parts to this restoration can be found in these links

IAN ROBERTSON RESTORATION OF THE CHASSIS PART 1


https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=6&th=203

Part 2 television radio cabinet restoration

https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=14&th=30

Part 1 of vintage TV and radio cabinet


https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=14&th=29

Stains and Grains


https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=14&th=28

:How to know what veneer is on your Radio cabinet


https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=14&th=26

OK Lets start.


GRAIN FILLING AND LEVELING

The reason we are filling the grain is so
1 :we get a good flat plane and the final finsh will be of even colour and of an even gloss level.
2 : you can give the cabinet a contrast by the grain filler and we can control, if we want more grain to show or less. We can change the colour giving it more contrasting colour if we wish .


STEP 7 GRAIN FILLER LEVELING.

1: Mix your grain fill up in warm water but let it cool down before puting it on
Forget what the label says and mix it up so its like running mud !
We want it like this so it gets in all the very small pores and cracks ,other wise it could turn out patches .
For most timbers you will need to do this following process 2 or 3 times .

2 pour the muddy grain filler on and only do one panel at a time.



href='http://i.imgur.com/SlJu9qX' title=''>

3: with your hands wipe it across the grain back and forth . But you must then finish going with the grain before it dries other wise it can leave marks.
4: the next section has a couple of different ways to removing it again.
I do it this way,
Using a good sanding block with 320 on it is the fastest way to remove it and at the same time the block will get it dead flat if used in the right Manor.
a href='http://i.imgur.com/n7e5Xy4' title=''>

You use the block like a file or a flipping a egg motion in one direction with the grain.
Not sanding it up down.
That wont work.
Ok, thats how I have been doing it for years and years and thats how I was taught to do it.

The other method is to wait until its all most dry and then use a scraper to to peel it off leaving the pores filled.
After that you will still need to block it down with 320 sand paper to get it flat.
After doing this process 2 times all over the cabinet,
Feel the grain.Get down to eye level and have a look to see if its flat and that the pores are full.
Now you also need to be aware that we are just wanting to fill the pores , thats all. So look to see if you have missed sanding any filler that will cause an opaque finish! A Bit like undercoat over spray !
So if you see areas like that than they will need to blocked down more.
Electric sanders will never get a surface flat as a good hand block , whether we are painting a car or restoring a cabinet, its the block that gets them flat.
We just use sanders for getting the rough shape and then the block to get it flat. But in this case of grain filler all you need is a block as the shape is already there.

Also its good to know, that if you put Timber Mate grain filler on and its too thick or its dried too hard to sand , a wet cloth will take it all off again if needed.

Another good thing to focus on when ever your rubbing your hands on veneers is that they will make a differant sound if there is a problem.
Eg not glued enough
Eg air.
A hollow sound under your hand.

Ok thats it, the next one is laying the stain and its now on the down hill run
Thanks pete.


 
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