My Son asked if I wanted an old radio, he found clearing out a property shed.
Not a problem I said so he tipped a floor standing Radio/Record player out of the Ranger .
The set is in a very sad state with woodwork sagging having been stowed on its side on an earth floor for ?? years.
The dial plate said it was made by Healing as a "Golden Voice" with a Garrard changer on one side and the set on the other.

There was only one set of speakers, so it is a mono unit.
I checked the vale line up as 6AE8, 6BA6,6AV6 and two 6BV7 plus a 6V4 rectifier.
Very interesting circuit as the 6BV7 are in push pull in a cunning phase split drive circuit.
That may be worth powering up to see how it goes.

I trawl through Kevin Chants site yielded the model 677G and that looks spopt on.
The set has dual wave and a set of tone switches that look like a poor man's equaliser.
Have not seen anything like that before.
I took some snaps so I'll send them on to Brad to pin to this post.

Now if this was a 60's Holden or Chevvy it would suit a rebuild of some sort, but a Healing record player?
From the photos you will see the cabinets needs more than a bit of a buff up!
The Chassi is pretty clean but the Garard change is trashed and the speakers rotten with moisture.

any comment on whether this set is scarce/desirable?
Looks like the axe and skip would be the go to me.

Fred.

Some stuff for free is just dumping; I got lucky & got that HMV 42-71 posted a while back. Guy thought I may like it for parts.

Cabinet was close enough to mint. Its now refurbished.

Photos uploaded.

Cabinet definitely looks sick, something for the woodwork-minded handyman I think, if you have one available.

I think the radio side is worth repairing, especially given that valve lineup. It should produce lots of soundl given the sensitivity of the 6BV7 in a proper circuit, rather than the usual 4-valve job.

It's even got 2 speakers under the radio. It would have been very nice (and expensive) in its day.

Old record players are something I do not care about - you might want to repair it, but I generally just ignore them.

With records making a comeback these can have a new life and there are a few here that I would like to move out. The reason is basically that these things take up space and a lot of matchboxes of today have not got the space for them. That's how I got the HMV & a more modern setup: No space.

Depending on the desire to furnish retro or not, also governs what is bought. Like turntables can be bought with USB for a Computer with a decent sound card, or a compatible amplifier.

Turntables should be serviced at around 500hrs, which rarely happened. The one in a HMV R53B here is a mechanical abomination.

The early grease soaps dried out in everything and you have to remove every trace of it, to have any hope of getting it to work. That also applies to slide rails in dial drives where dirt in the dried grease soap exacerbates it binding.

Model is 677G and circuit is on Kevin's great site.

Getting the phase split by commoning the cathodes in the output stage and coupling the speaker output to the same node to get negative feedback is interesting. I must model that and see how well it works - or not!

Just note, there seems to be a mistake in the schematic.

R13, C31 and S5 appear to go from ground to ground. I assume that the volume control arrangement would be somewhat different from that shown.

Hi Rob, looks like a drawing ooops.
R12 and R13 should just join together no negative connection.
I won't know for a while have strained a back muscle and can hardly walk at the moment!
Can't even bend down to look at the thing. Great.

I have always hated circuits drawn with negative earth returns scattered all over the place, it's just laziness.
Especially when the chassis earth and negative rail and signal rail are at different potentials.
I always draw rails continuous.
Another thing I am guilty of and have since stopped doing is crossing lines with a dot or not.
I now put loops where wires cross but don't join.
This 677 circuit is a great example of guesswork as dots get lost or seem to be there on cross overs.
A good example occurs at R5! Does R5 really hook to both the HT and AGC sources?
Look at R7, hey there is a spare dot!

Back to the output 6BV7s yes I will get the chassis up onto the bench and give that a good look.
Interesting to see how the balance of drive is with that 100% feedback loop.

Fred.

Might make an interesting instrument amplifier with that output circuit. I agree with the use of humps for no connecting crossings on schematics, although when I was doing drafting in the 90s humps were out and crosses were in. Where crosses were joined, offsets were preferred.

Cabinet definitely looks sick, something for the woodwork-minded handyman I think, if you have one available.

Vintage Pete is the go-to guy for cabinet restos, but he hasn't posted on V-R for quite some time.

I think Pete would be laughing at the state of the cabinet!
The only viable timber in it is the two front doors and the bottom frame, some kind of hardwood.
Sitting on its side meant the frame was unloaded so it is not warped, much.
However, the steel fittings for the screw in legs have rotted in with rust.

The cab is firewood.
It is not much of a job to make a new cab but that won't be me doing it.
No logical point except as a hobby.
Been there done that.

The chassis may just be about workable, but the rest is far gone, and it will all go into the junk box.

Sad end for a nice little lounge room item.

I'm working on the usual story for this project, when I'm better I'll pull the chassis and do some tests on the push pull system.

Fred.

It is interesting to see the strange PP circuits encountered over the years. A Philips Line amp used 6CM5 switchers. A R301 AWA variant used the old output tube #42 biased back transformer coupled to a 6A6 for around 10 watts. Instead of a separate plug in unit with PP #42's

Most interesting a 16-34 (16 tubes) used a #37 transformer coupled to two more #37's in Push Pull also transformer coupled to four #45's in Push Pull 2 & 2.

Marc

Did a bit more on this project.
I moved the chassis and the turntable to the workshop for inspection.
Have started a story and sent a part one to Brad to pin to the lead post.

The turntable was a bit of a surprise.
It looks like a very well-engineered unit, made in the UK.
Still has the original inspection tag attached, see the pix in the article.
Not like the tinny BSR things.

Guys that know about these Garrard model RC 120/44 may let me know a bit more about them.
The changeover 78/45 cartridge has rotted out, any source known for a replacement?
When I'm a bit better I'll fire up the chassis and get it going.

Fred.

If you want a challenge the Collaro turntable in HMV R43B & R53B is the closest thing in turntables to a mechanical abomination, I have ever seen.

Actually, my first ever record player was a Garrard (from the tip), and it looked a lot like the one in that photo.

You could put a stack of records on the centre spindle, and an arm came out to find out the diameter of the record, then the tone arm came out to the proper spot. You still needed to manually set the speed though. You might remember that Goldring had all the different needle types numbered, there were thousands of types. My player used type #8 (available in sapphire and diamond).

I used it for a few years until finally its time was done.