Yeah I've heard bad things about Kogan, and so I've never bought anything from them.

Back to the radio, I assume that the 2nd diagram would be a perfect fit for Fred's radio. The 6AQ5 and 6V6 are electrically much the same. The 6N8 is pin-compatible with the 6AD8, but has higher gain.

The 6AD8 is more normally used in reflex radios, but this one is not reflexed, so having a 6N8 will be not an issue at all. Just need to clean the pins of all 3 miniature valves.

Another mob to avoid at all costs if you don't like being spammed several times a day via e-mail is Kogan.

I would never deal with Kogan. For one thing their prices can be stupidly high compared to others for a given product. For another, I have heard that getting a refund from them can be tortuous.

Kogan has been fined by ACMA for spamming people.

I too have had a bad experience at Sydney tools, and will never shop there again.

I had a special order, paid for it on the day, and when I returned to pick it up on the day that it arrived they would not hand the item to me without me handing over my Driver's Licence. I showed them the text message of the notification they had sent to my phone saying that the goods had arrived. Still they refused to hand over the goods.

Now I go to Total Tools, whom despite their name, are really good.

Wayne.

despite their name, are really good

They really get ribbed about that name. I agree they are good people to deal with.

Back to the Classic!

Yes, I just had to turn it on and see what worked.
As the owner had already formed the electros for me I staged it up at AC 100 and 200 volts keeping an eye on the wattage in.
Its interesting how much you can find from just powering up and observing.
The HT voltage floated up to around 200vDC once set to 240 volt AC and the set played local stations with a short aerial.
I noted the AGC voltage varied as signals tuned in being around 3volt on a station and dropping to 0v off station where the background noise level came up. That made the set sound "lively".
The input wattage was about 40 and a thermometer check showed no hot parts. all that felt normal.
However, the audio was distorted.
Yep the 6V6 had 9 volts on the cathode and +8 on the grid.
I replaced the coupling cap and the cathode then had 6 volts (240ohm) and the grid 0v.
Music was then clean and the HT rose to 236 volt, the drain was still 40 watts on the mains.
I guess the power supply was dropping into constant current with the 6V6 running hard.
The set was now playing "normally", low value of hum, plenty of volume.
I could just about leave it like that!
However I should now replace any wax cap in the high impedance circuits and any resistor that measures way out.
Maybe re-stuff the electros as well.
A good start to a project.
Fred.

Well grey paint is not a good guide: I have a Howard on the bench, a Breville and a Marconi / HMV, all grey paint the Breville is the really glossy one.

Howard has no circuit, but I fixed it anyway and it classifies as a horror set. More faults than the Australian Open.

Most of the sets with 6A8, 6U7, 6B8 or 6B6, 6V6 and perhaps 5Y3 followed a similar plot. Astor on JJ used a dedicated earth on the riveted terminals (Aluminium chassis).

I get power & phone bills snail mail. To note the fake bills and other Telstra related spoofs, spam & phishing items, that try to get your bank details.

Beware: 6J8 and 6A8 will work in one another's spot, however in Astor JJ for one, 6J8 will compress the band.

Sorry, I'm dragging this off topic, but this is worth mentioning I think-

The latest warranty scam is to not specify the warranty details on the documentation that comes with the product. Instead they give you a QR code to scan which takes you to the website of a third-party company that 'manages' warranties called 'iWarranty'. Of course, you have to sign up for an account before you can register the warranty. I refused to sign up and emailed the seller asking for the warranty period. They emailed me back with the details, so I have the email as proof.

It's a contant battle.

Of course, you have to sign up for an account before you can register the warranty.

Prior to computerised retail, typically you often had to fill in your details plus product's model and serial number on a warranty card and mail that -- reply paid -- to the manufacturer. Sometimes you were asked to tick boxes about yourself and/or the use of the product.

I don't ever recall being spammed as a result of that process. Nowadays, of course, the marketing department wants everyone's details for obvious reasons and, also of course, who knows what level of data security these third party places have.

I have got the Classic chassis up to speed with a few more fixes of interest.
I'll send a Part2 to Brad to pin to this topic.

Got to store the Classic now and get on with other projects.

Fred.

Part 2 uploaded.